MickeyAshmore.com

Capacity Reached: MickeyAshmore.Blogspot.com

2010-07-30T23:13:00.001-07:00

Hello All,

I have reached the capacity of this blog and can no longer add pictures.

Please follow my time in Turkey at http://www.mickeyashmoreistanbul.blogspot.com/.

Thanks,
Mickey

Day 1: Istanbul

2010-07-29T10:03:00.000-07:00

After 16 hours of travel, I am too jet lagged to write a lot... but I will note a few things:

1. I am living in Nisantasi-Teskiviye and I really love the area. I am a five minute walk from the main drag, which reminds me a lot of Soho - a mix of high-end and boutique shopping, lots of young people passing the time at streetside cafes, tons of energy and a mild Bohemian flair in select places. This is certainly a great place to be.

2. My Crest brand toothbrush and tooth paste purhcased from a local pharmacy cost $16.50 USD. Wow.

3. There are so many sweet shops and bakeries on the street - its unbelievable.

4. There are so many gorgeous Turkish women on the streets - its unbelievable

5. The language barrier is pretty tough... I bought a Turkish phrasebook so hopefully that helps

6. So far, everyone is very friendly and Turkey is very modern and feels very European. It was named the European Capital of Culture for 2010 --- I'm not surprised. TimeOut Turkey is a great companion too!

7. The weather is wonderful - feels like Seattle summer. 70-80s, some wind, not a cloud in the sky.

8. My first act in Turkey was to get a proper shave at a one-man barber shop down my street. I didn't only get a shave... my $8 package included a painful uni-brow plucking (Turkish men are VERY hairy so I think they really need this), tweezers to the excess hairs on my face (I guess I had some stragglers on my cheeks that he missed while shaving), a very odd head and scalp massage, several serious aftershave slaps on my cheeks, and a baby powdered towel exploding against my face. To end the experience, my barber put my sunglasses on my face, styled my hair for 3-4 minutes and then gave me two thumbs up. Damn good shave. Thanks to Atol the barber. I'll be back.

More to come... including pictures.

Best,
Mickey

Aspiring Artist - my first crack at Pastels

2010-05-09T06:59:00.000-07:00

Inspired by my Aunt Natalie, I created my first pastel from a truck I photographed in Santa Fe, New Mexico last year.

My aunt writes, "This is an amazing first effort. Your truck is great! It is modeled. You did this quickly without having to think about it. Rusty (my uncle) does that too and that's talent."

I am selling my first work for $500 and limited edition prints for $50. Any takers?

Bier, Beer, Bere

2010-05-09T06:53:00.000-07:00

My last day in Munich, a Saturday, was a day worth remembering. I cannot say I did anyone thing so memorable or exciting, but overall - I enjoyed Munich to the fullest, exploring the city, stopping for a bier at every resting place, and meeting new people. I was alone that day - but never felt lonely.

First, I'd like to comment on the architecture of Munich. I believe most of the city was destroyed in World War II and has been almost too handsomely restored. Note the perfection, the changing pastel colors down a line of buildings - perfectly symmetrical and aligned. I cannot say it is bad -- I've been too less attractive cities. But, I will say the architecture tells much about the culture of the city: conservative, law & order, sterile at times, great for a family. Munich is a great city, but definitely not full of surprises by any means... or you got to know where to look.

So Charming.

After a nice breakfast in Gartnerplatz, a fantastic place to people watch with a nice capuccino and croissant, I walked the long walk to the English Gardens. I was wrong, Munich did catch me by surprise... note the number of naked folks laying on the grass (shown with arrows). And yes, some were even senior citizens (I did not want to see that). Walking through the grass toward the river and my next beer, I felt like a WWII solider crossing a mine field. Did I mention the naked swimmers and washed up hippies at the riverside... I thought Munich was conservative. This was definitely out of left field.

The rest of the day consisted of Beer at the Chinese Tower near English Gardens. Hundreds gathered on the sunny day across picnic tables to enjoy fresh beer, great food and plenty of company.

Bavarian Food at the Chinese Tower in the English Gardens.

Lunch -- all the important food groups in Bavaria: Beer and Meat... plus a little "veggies"

Trays of Schweinshaxe, a roasted Ham hock dish (or "pork knuckle") that is especially popular in Bavaria. The outer skin is crispy, the middle layer is juicy fat, and the center warm, succulent meat. Wow!

Drinking beer in the sun at English Gardens.

Beer, everywhere. I miss it!

Fresh Veggies at the Naschmarkt - Vienna

2010-04-26T12:11:00.001-07:00

Cafe Central - Vienna

2010-04-25T17:18:00.000-07:00

A Viener Melange (German for "Viennese blend") is coffee with milk and is similar to a cappuccino, but usually made with mild coffee (e.g. mocha), preferably caramelised. Everytime I saw Melange on the menu, it typically specified, as Julius Meinl coffee says, as having "equal parts steamed milk and foam."

Viennese coffee is also served with a small glass of still or sparkling water. Having now lived in Seattle nearly a year, I know good coffee - and Vienna has good coffee.

I enjoyed my last true Viennese coffee at Cafe Central along with several of their homemade desserts. Housed inside a beautiful, well preserved palace - Cafe Central is a classic Viennese coffe house - famous for being the regular stomping grounds of famous literary and intellectual characters back in the day.

Now-a-days, it is frequented by a mix of locals and tourists a like. And for good reason - the ambience and classic coffeehouse fare are just right. I'd highly recommend the Apple Strudel as well as sampling of their other famous cakes (skip the Sacher Torte).

Details:
Café Central, in the Palais Ferstel, entrance of Herrengasse 14 (corner of Strauchgasse)

There is more to Vienna than Schnitzel and Strudel

2010-04-24T08:31:00.000-07:00

Sacher Torte at Hotel Sacher.

I sit now, writing by pen and paper, my account of a great weekend in Vienna. Sipping my Vienesse melange at the Hotel Sacher, while an older couple enjoys the famous chocolate Sacher torte at the next table, I imagine this is how all early 20th century writers would have done it. A bit romantic, yes. But exactly how I'd like to end my weekend in Vienna. And maybe similar to all those depressed writers, I too am depressed, by the dopamine imbalance caused by alcohol and food withdrawal after a fairly hedonistic weekend. I can't complain.

The Appel Strudel at Cafe Central, a traditional Viennese coffeehose which opened in 1860. Many of these cafes, like Cafe Central - were the hangouts for classic literary and intellectual characters.

Let's talk, first, about Vienna. The kind of place that evokes romantic emotions like Paris. The kind of city that makes you want to dress up simply for a stroll; as if to match the elegance and sophistication of the architecture and ambience.

I arrived just two nights ago with little knowledge of what my weekend would entail. Given this volcanic ash cloud over Europe, it was a miracle I even made my flight. I just so happened to be standing near gate 26: the last flight to Vienna at 3:45pm, and heard the final boarding call, as my 5:30pm flight was simultaneously cancelled. I was able to change flights and I think I got the final seat on the final plane from Munich to Vienna. Just the sort of luck that signals a great weekend lies ahead. I gave a few friends of mine from studying in Hong Kong (who I hadn't seen in almost two years) about a week's notice that I was coming into town. They quickly responded - I had a feeling I was going to be met with warmth and hospitality.

The Vienna Opera House at night. Completed in 1869, it was the first opera built in Vienna.

I arrived on Friday evening, earlier than expected. With three hours to kill before dinner, I slowly snkaed my way through Vienna's first district; wowed at every corner by the magnificently preserved buildings and beautiful architecture. I was clear that Vienna was built by a wealthy population with an eye for opulence and an intent to impress. I am very, very impressed. I can easily say Vienna may be one of the prettiest cities I have ever seen.

I enjoyed my first beer, a local Ottakringer, on the patio of Cafe Mozart - overlooking the Albertino museum, the Opera House, and a collection of other beautiful buildings. Again, wow - seduced by the grandeur of it all. By 9pm, I was seated comfortably, sipping a spritzer at the bar at the Palmenhaus - a greenhouse built in 1822 and recently refurbished to include a restaurant. Clientelle of mostly Austrians, highly recommended for both ambience and food. Dinner with Eva, Tino, Andreas and Maximilion was fantastic - reminiscing about our time in Hong Kong, catching up on two years of time apart. And the food... Order the fresh fish. Outstanding.

From Palmenhaus, we quickly we made our way to a tram on ring road, where my friend Tino promised a night to be remembered. With twenty minutes to spare before the "special tram" arrived, we bought a few beers at a nearby stand. A luxury that I have always enjoyed in Europe - drinking casually in public. Then, around the corner came a public tram - bass pounding and blacklights illuminating the neon writing all over the glass. DJ booth in back, bar in front - we were definitely cruising to this party in style. Coordinated by one of Tino's friend, Hombre, we were headed to the Ottakringer Brewery, which for the night, had been converted into an enormous club with enough bass to leave ears ringing for multiple days.

We danced until 4AM. Then ate a Kasekrainer sausage, burning the roof of my mouth. But wow, very good. Weiner Wurstl stands are found all over the city, where for a few Euros a beer and sausage can be enjoyed at a standing counter. It seems everyone has their favorite stands.

A classic Kasekrainer stand.

The next morning - I awoke early, my head hurting and ears ringing from the night before - the bassline, ntsh ntsh ntsh, stuck in my head. I made my way to Vienna's most popular local food market, Naschmarkt. It is one long mile of gourmet heaven - sitting between rows of beautiful classic buildings. I couldn't imagine a better place to assuage my hangover. First stop, the Prosecco stand - where despite the fact it was only 10AM, groups of locals and tourists alike where enjoying a bit of bubbly, oysters and other fresh fish to start the morning. When in Wien.

The variety, scale and volume of food at the Naschmarkt is overwhelming. Wow. Everything from cured meats, fine cheeses, and wine to doners, hummus, and beers. But the greatest part of the market is the energy. People are not just shopping and viewing - they are enjoying. Most stands also have space to stop and have a drink while enjoying their food. For example, at one gourmet cheese shop - a group enjoys a bottle of wine and several antipasti platters- sampling the shops goods in full.

The largest Doner I have ever seen - at the Naschmarkt.

Shots of schnapps for breakfast - schnapps are quite famous in Austria - known locally as Obstler, from the German word fruit.

After a few hours perusing the market, I headed back to the center of Vienna for a short nap before meeting friends for lunch. Eva wanted to take me site seeing. My response - the perfect site would be that of a typical weekend for you in Vienna. It was sunny out - she smiled. After a quick lunch where I met her boyfriend and some of her other friends from the same town, Wels (and other parts of Upper Austira), we were off to the Museum Quartier. But not before picking up a few beers and Radlers (part beer, part lemonade). A very refreshing way to day drink in the sun.

Lounging in the Museum Quartier

The museum quartier was perfect. A decent sized square sitting between Vienna's finset museums - we always were sitting in a work of art. And when public spaces are this nice, plus you are allowed to imbibe in Public - why not come here? Furthermore, the Viennese are weird/creative ... we could order drinks from the Ass and Sperm bars. Enormous sculptures created to represent the innerworkings of human systems, cleverly carved into a bar.

Sex Ed starts young in Vienna at the Sperm Bar.

Want to study another part of Human anatomy? Try the Asch bar.

After a few hours relaxing there, with the sun starting to set - we made our way to Steiermark- a lively and large wine festival celebrating the wines from an area called Styria. The festival was a blast - enhanced by the unbelievable setting as the merrymaking was watched on by the Rathaus, Vienna's gothic style city hall building constructed in the 1870s. Apparently, the Rathaus overlooks festivals of this type everyday. How lucky the Viennese are to have these types of special places. The wine was flowing all evening - at 12-16 euros per bottle, why not? I met a new group of Eva and her boyfriend's, Flo, friends. Similarly, they were all from outside Vienna and mostly from the upper part. Small towns from a couple thousand to 70,000 inhabitants. A distinction has clearly been drawn between those born in Vienna and those who come from "the country" and other towns. People stick with their own - I kept hearing. Very different than the US, where most people can't wait to be uprooted and start over fresh. Both have their merits.

Another interesting aspect of this festival was the dress. Many here, both young and old, were dressed traditionally - others would call it folkloric, known as Tracht. Women wore colorful, check patterned dresses, known as Dirndls, while men wore fancy hats, greenish jackets with elaborate buttons and sometimes even special leatherish looking pants,y called Lederhosen. These outfits are also common in southern Germany - apparently based on the historical costume of Alpine peasants.

Friday's At Viktualienmarkt

2010-04-23T11:44:00.000-07:00

Enjoy a Hofbrau beer, a German sausage, and a slice or two of crispy Pork knuckle (melts in your mouth) at the Viktualienmarkt in city center of Munich.

A great way to spend a Friday afternoon. The mix of people is amazing:

- Young and Old

- Tourist and Locals

- Traditional and Modern

All sitting at tables or standing at counters in the hundreds enjoying the spring weather!

All ages affair.

Viktualienmarkt Biergarten.

Schweizerhaus Wien

2010-04-22T01:20:00.000-07:00

A great Sunday afternoon meal in Vienna at Schweizerhaus - a traditional bier garten with classic Austrian food. I ate enough pork and drank enough beer that I was full into halfway through the next day.

The Famous Stezle, a roasted Pork Knuckle ("Ham Hock") weighing over three pounds, served the traditional Austrian way with a side salad of cabbage, freshly grated horseradish, pickled chilles plus brown mustard. Roasted to perfection on the outside, leaving a crackly shell to seal the inside: a mixture of juicy fat and tender pork meat. An explosion of flavor when you bite in - like a juicy piece of bacon. Really, really amazing... In Germany, this is known as Schweinshaxe.

The original Czech Budvar Budweiser with a thicky foamy head is served here by the tray load. Nothing like in the States... see History here. Never ending trays of this beer are served all day.

Did I mention it seats hundreds and hundreds?

Breaking into the crunchy shell of the Stezle. Sides of salad and horseradish + mustard shown.

Fully and happy.

Job well done.

Schweizerhaus Wien - Biergartern and Austrian Food - see more here.

Karl Kolarik's Schweizerhaus Ges.m.b.H
Prater 116, A-1020 Vienna
email: info@schweizerhaus.at

Opening hours
Daily open from 11:00 am till 23:00 pm. Season from 15th of march till 31st of october.
Reservation
Telefon: +43 (1) 7280152 13

Kazakhstan - A Variety of Photos

2010-04-12T13:01:00.000-07:00

Street Kebabs out front of the Green Baazar in downtown Almaty. Very similar to Turkish or Middle Eastern grilled meets -- great flavor, and even better price.

Pierogi/Piroshky Baker. Russian influence. Most of these fluffy pastries are filled with a meat... sometimes horse meat (nomadic influence).

Poppy seed strudel from a great coffee shop in downtown Almaty.

Look familiar?

Cured meat and cheese specialty store in Green Baazar, Almaty.

Slice of Italy in Almaty

2010-04-08T22:54:00.000-07:00

Foodie friends will appreciate....
I was pleasantly surprised two nights ago, when after nearly an hour of searching for a restaurant in dark and dreary downtown Almaty, I stepped into a very authentic feeling Italian restaurant. It felt like a little slice of Italy in the middle of Kazakhstan. The waiters spoke fluent Italian and took orders with the an air of gourmand snobbery. After seating us, the waiter quickly sung through a list of house specialties in melodical Italian... "Abbiamo un'insalata di rucola con formaggio speciale, un spaghetti con gamberi, un fresco branzino alla griglia con limone, aglio e olio d'oliva..."

The meal started with warm fresh bread and olive oil, rather than russian rolls, cucumbers and spicy peppers. After a few moments, I realized Porto was a seafood restaurant with the fish flown in from Italy and proudly displayed on ice. No horsemeat on this menu. The dishes were totally authentic (this was not Maggiano's, much truer to Italy), with arugula Caprese salad to homemade Spaghetti with mussels, shrimps and claims and mushroom risotto to freshly grilled Gamberetti. Alternatively, there were tons of different fresh fish options - prepared whole to our liking - even baked in Sea Salt.
The wine list was extensive as well. The waiter even scoffed at the idea of drinking red wine with fish... so of course, I chose white. The restaurant itself was fairly full (for a Wednesday night) and there were even a few Italians there who looked like they had just stepped off their yacht in Portofino.

Overall, it was pretty surreal experience and I'm happy to report that the meal was quite good. That said, it was close to $200USD --- so we paid dearly for the fresh fish to get to Kazakhstan.

No Borat in Kazakhstan

2010-04-06T01:32:00.000-07:00

Believe it or not, not everyone in Kazakhstan looks like Borat. Matter of fact, no one does. But, I will say that the population of Almaty, the city where I am staying for the next week, is certainly unique.

Almaty is a mix of Kazakh, Russian, Uighur, Mongol, Chinese, Korean and a few of this and that expat. The mix of people is a product of the country’s location – sitting largely (about four times the size of Texas) between China, Mongolia, Russia and a few central Asian to the South. Kazakhstan was part of the original Silk Road – so movement of people between these countries through Kazakhstan had a large impact on the culture today. There is even a small German population that was resettled here during WWII from Russia near the Volga River. Most of the original 700,000 moved back to Germany, under 100,000 remain today.

What I learned at lunch with a few Microsoft colleagues is that the majority of people here are classified into two groups (and make up almost 90% of the population): Russian/European and Kazakh. Kazakh are most interesting physically. Like their local food, Kazakh characteristics are a fusion of the surrounding cultures. From what I can tell, and I’ve only been here a little over 48 hours (so I am generalizing a bit), the average Kazakh (or is it Kazakhstani?) has the intense forehead, brow and flatter note of a Russian and/or Turkic person, mixed with the round face, eyes and coloring of the Chinese – very similar to Mongolian, but a less round head. They also tend to have very high cheekbones. However, the Asian look certainly dominates.

Despite the majority of Kazakh people, the Russian language dominates here – even in business. Kazakh is only spoken by about 60% of the population; whereas Russian is spoken by about 95%. Russian is the official language of business and the language of interethnic communication.

And the language barrier. I’ve never been so handicapped in a country due to language. English is very, very rarely spoken here – even by my hotel staff. English signs are nowhere to be found, either. When I stare at a strip of retail stores – I can hardly tell a bank from a restaurant from a dry cleaner. The difficult mostly stems from the Cyrillic language – which reminds me of sophomore year trigonometry class, still completely indecipherable. This is also why I accidentally ordered horse meat on a few occasions.

Let’s talk food. One of the best parts of the Kazakh culture is the love of meat and the similar preparation of certain meats to Turkey and Middle Eastern cultures. Kebab, locally known as Shashlik, and Döner abound. I’ve eaten Döner now, pretty much all over the world, and I can say that this sandwich (see below) was as good as it gets. The bread tasted like a chewy flour tortilla and it was stuffed with sliced lamb and a very unique assortment of vegetables: pickles, carrots, tomatoes and French fries (I know this isn’t a veggie). The sauce was a tangy, spicy mix – almost like the secret sauce at McDonalds. The combination was perfect!

And the bad? Well, the Kazakh culture has nomadic roots. Therefore, the typical meats for most dishes are horse and mutton (sheep). Even at the French restaurant I visited last night, Horse steak was on the menu. I opted for my steak made of beef. That said, I’ve now eaten horse twice, once on accident and once intentionally. Both times – the result was so-so. I won’t necessarily say that horse meat always tastes bad, but I do think – without the proper preparation – it tastes bad about 97.6% of the time. I’d recommend you steer clear, except of course… when in Kazakhstan. Otherwise, chicken, beef, pork and lamb are common here as well – especially at Western restaurants.

And some more good? Similar to a country like Singapore, which takes cuisine cues from Indonesia, China, Malaysia and India, Kazakhstan’s local cuisine is enhanced by the diversity of influence. Stir-fried Chinese noodle dishes are served along meat stuffed dumplings, spicy mutton kebabs and Turkish raviolis known as manty. Even Korean food finds its way into local restaurants and offerings, particularly Korean salads with cabbage and pickled vegetables.

Overall, the diversity of influence on Almaty and Kazakhstan is both good and bad. The Soviet-era has left much of the city drab, grey and unremarkable, while the unique ethnic mix adds flavor both to the street life and food. Worth a visit? I’ll let you know in a few days once I get to enjoy a full weekend here… including the night life!

Russian Orthodox Cathdral - Downtown Almaty

2010-04-05T21:09:00.001-07:00

The Ascension Cathedral (Russian: Вознесенский собор), also known as Zenkov Cathedral，is a Russian Orthodox cathedral located in Panfilov Park in Almaty, Kazakhstan. Completed in 1907, it is the second tallest wooden building in the world.

Festival for the Prophet's Birthday - Cairo

2010-04-04T20:02:00.000-07:00

On my last day in Cairo, my Egyptian friend took me to the old market in the oldest part of Cairo. It also happened to be the day of a very, very, very long parade celebrating the Prophet's birthday. Small groups from villages all over Egypt gathered in procession - each group singing their local song praising Allah, proudly displaying their town's banner dressed in traditional attire.

Reader E-mail: From a Ghanain living in Texas

2010-04-04T19:48:00.001-07:00

Hello Mr. Ashmore,

My name is Gifty, I'm 15 years old, a very proud Ghanaian, and i just discovered your blog on different countries, and I saw the one about Ghana. Reading your blogs about Ghana was so exciting, and funny, and informative. I was born and raised in Ghana, but i currently live in Texas. I love what you did in Ghana for the school children especially introducing presentations and how to apply the knowledge most Ghanaian students memorize. Memorizing text book materials was how me and my fellow Ghanaian classmates learned in school. I was lucky enough to go to a better, more financially stable, private school in Akim Oda, Eastern region of Ghana than the students you taught at Kuk JHS, so i didn't have much trouble in applying my knowledge or using the computer.

I'm glad that you enjoyed the Ghanaian cuisine, i do too. When tourists go to Ghana, the friendliness of Ghanaians are always mentioned, and i agree. The one thing that i found very interesting and something that i had never thought of in that way was your "obroni" post. I always thought that there was nothing wrong with the word until i saw your perspective on the concept vice versa. If a black person was walking down the street and the natives called him/her "black person, black person!" that is pretty ignorant. So thank you for opening my eyes to this perspective, and I agree with you on ending this "obroni" saying habit.

Also, your post on the Accra cinema (i wasn't in Ghana when it was completed) was informative. I never knew that they had self-flushing toilets in Accra. The first time i saw one myself was on the airplane coming to U.S. When i was in Ghana i didn't know much about the outside world either, just like Cornelius, not even the outside Africa. The fact that they showed American movies was also new to me. (i've lived in Texas for almost three years now).
I haven't finished reading all of your posts yet, but i'm curious. Why do you visit all these countries and teach school children? Is this part of your job here in the U.S? If it is, that is a really cool job, and I would LOVE to know more about that job. Or are u just doing this just cause you want to? How do you get these host families? Do you just ask them and they willingly agree to host you in their house?

Take care,

-Gifty

p.s, your post on how conservative Ghanaian youth are in the "boyfriend-girlfriend" matter was my favorite. As a teenager, i DEFINITELY knew what you were talking about.

LH646 to Almaty via Frankfurt

2010-04-04T19:41:00.000-07:00

I am convinced that the trick to delivering great first class air travel is to wine and dine your passengers until they are so full and buzzed that even the longest, bumpiest, and most boring 10 hour flight is enjoyable. Evidence comes from my flight from Seattle to Frankfurt on Lufthansa, for which 10% nice smile plus 90% luck landed me a free business class upgrade upon check-in. I don’t even have a frequent flyer account with these guys.

But let’s step back to my flight. The only other time I ever flew first class, I was 16 and had to be wheel chaired to the seat, IV drip only plucked from my elbow a few minutes prior after a “near death” bout of food poisoning and over-indulgence in Acapulco. Unlike that terrible flight back to Dallas, my LH flight to Frankfurt (en route to Kazakhstan) has been terrific. I am even willing to argue that my in-flight meal was better tasting than the dinner I had last night at one of Seattle’s new hot spots, Cicchetti.

I had no idea that reheated airplane eggplant rollatini, pork tenderloin with apricot risotto, and tres leches cake (which is one of my favorites) could taste so good. Wow, the menu they presented when I boarded claimed, “first class food in first class” and they were not kidding around. Good Job to the chef who figured this all out.

Did I mention the glass of champagne before taking off and the excellent Tuscan Villa Antinori wine with my meal? I finished It all off with a digestive as the pretty French flight attendant pronounced. A little cognac, although I was tempted by the Bailey’s.

Alright, so maybe I sound like a little kid in a candy store. But I just can’t help but remark on how much I am enjoying this flight right now – fully belly and buzz included.

Well, I am going to watch a movie now. Unfortunately though, Lufthansa does not have the greatest movie selection – probably another reason they served me so many courses and wine pairings so I won’t know the difference.

I’ll be posting pictures soon from Almaty, Kazakhstan. I am hoping that my good fortune at the airport is an omen for what is to come.

Mickey

Pretend: Lawrence of Arabia

2010-02-25T06:07:00.000-08:00

Howdy Folks,

I woke up this morning around 5am, on my second to last day in Egypt having not yet seen the Pyramids up close. Panicked, knowing I would never ever be back… I departed my hotel so I could make it to the desert before sunrise. Out above the city and where I could see the pyramids. The one catch: I had to be at work by 8:30am. Time was scarce.

30 minutes later, I found myself sitting in a small Egyptian perfume shop, selling scents made from flowers and spices that smelled suspiciously similar to Cool Water by Davidoff and Body by Issey Miyake. I drank piping hot Arabic tea as I negotiated the price of a solo guided horseback ride to a good viewing point of the Giza Plateau.

Once finalized, I saddled onto an “Arabian” horse with a nice guide named Kimo. We rode to a small “mountain” that looked back over Giza city (outskirts of Cairo) and the pyramids (they are surrounding by a 25km wall to keep out people who don’t pay and just want to loiter. It protects the Pyramids). On the mountain, there was a small makeshift tent (a modern Bedouin establishment) where there were three young guys sleeping, one small dog chewing a blanket, a dirt bike and a small fire to boil water. They made me some nice tea as we watched the sunrise and my guide smoked a cigarette (everyone here smokes). “No thanks,” I declined to partake.

I then saw a camel guided by a chubby, but jolly man in a traditional outfit. I managed to convince him to let me climb aboard and ride for 10 minutes… I almost fell off (David, remember when we rode a camel together at that theme restaurant in Jaipur – remember how much it bucks you when it stands up).

After about an hour of chatting, taking photos and looking at the view, I rode back into town chatting with my guide. He was 29-years-old, married with 3 kids (two twins) and studying Ancient History at Cairo University. His family has been raising horses in a stable and living in the same house for over 4 generations. It is common in Egypt that multiple generations of one family will live under the same roof and at the same time. Each family, if they are lucky, occupying a different floor. He was a really a nice guy – he spoke more than just “tourist” English so we had a real conversation.

Anyway, I am at the office now with about 3.5 hours of working life left in Cairo. My time in Cairo has been a mixed experience; but all-in-all, I am very happy I came. That said, I wouldn’t recommend traveling to Cairo if you are seeking the following:
• Good Food
• Relaxation
• To cleanse your body or detox*

I think the air here is a mixture of 50% oxygen, 20% car pollution, 15% sand and dust and 15% second hand cigarette and sheesha pipe smoke. Traffic is a nightmare, caused by lack of road rules, making travel across the city take 5 times longer than it should. That said, the people here have been generally nice and my work experience fantastic (learning a lot and enjoying mixing with the office culture of Cairo).

Hope everyone is doing well. See pictures below (I reduced image size so quality isn’t perfect. Email me if you want a sharper photo). Feel free to share comments and Brett, I am expecting you send out your annual “e-mail” poking fun at my travel writings.

Nile Maxim + Tanoura

2010-02-19T01:33:00.000-08:00

Enjoyed an evening of dinner and lots of dancing (Belly Dancing, American Cover Band dancing, and Tanoura) last night on the Nile.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/korayem/sets/72157607371220842/

War-Torn Beautiful Beirut

2010-02-16T12:30:00.000-08:00

Although it is difficult to capture the true essence of Beirut without visiting, in many ways -- it reminds me of a blend of three things: Miami, Paris and D-Day Normandy Beach.

The topographic setting and art-deco high rises along the Mediterranean with a long corniche lined with fancy cafes and flashy cars. Did I mention beautiful people (women)? Miami.

Small winding streets named "Rue de...", colorful buildings with small balconies, a multitude of quality French restaurants and a certain bit of romance. Paris.

Bullet holes, rubble, half-standing buildings and walls missing facade. Normany Beach.

Beirut has real character, true soul and a very distinct feel. My description does no justice to this city. I recommend a visit.

Downtown Beirut

2010-02-16T05:04:00.000-08:00

Mosque and Church split East and West Beirut. This middle ground, also known as the green line, was a no-go zone during the Civil War. It is slowly being restored.

The Green Line was a line of demarcation in Beirut, Lebanon during the Lebanese Civil War from 1975 to 1990. It separated the mainly Muslim factions in West Beirut from the Christian Lebanese Forces in East Beirut. The appellation refers to the coloration of the foliage that grew because the space was uninhabited. Many of the buildings along the Green Line were severely damaged or destroyed during the war. Since the end of hostilities, however, many of the buildings have been rebuilt within the framework of the urban renewal project of Solidere in Beirut Central District.

mmmm.... Egyptian Sweets

2010-02-14T07:05:00.003-08:00

Sooo much Sugar... soo good. I feel sick.

mmmm.... Egyptian Sweets

2010-02-14T07:05:00.001-08:00

Sooo much Sugar... soo good. I feel sick.

Cairo is plenty safe.. if not welcoming

2010-02-14T06:56:00.001-08:00

Learning that I would be traveling to Cairo, many of my American friends expressed concern.

“Is it safe over there?”

“Be careful. Don’t get kidnapped.”

“Do they treat Americans well?”

And so on.

My response at the time has now been confirmed after a full week in Cairo.

“Yes.”

“Ok, I’ll be fine.”

“They are very friendly and treat me like family…well almost.”

Believe it or not, I feel more than just safe in Cairo, but welcomed. I think the people in Cairo are friendlier and more hospitable than most places I’ve traveled (although nothing will compare to Ghana) and I feel safer in Cairo than I do in NYC. However, that is not to say there are no risks to my well-being. The top three being:

(1) Getting hit by a car as I snake my way through a multi-non-defined lane highway of speeding vehicles at night. Everyone else was doing it too…

(2) Suffocating from pollution. Or, at least, long term damage leading to premature death. Lack of clean oxygen may seriously damage my brain. Cairo is easily the most polluted city I have ever been to. Imagine sitting in a closed room with a running car; however, there is just enough air getting in and out of a small window so you survive. But not without feeling a heaviness in your chest and layer of soot on your fac.e

(3) Eating glutonously to the point of heart attack. Falafel deep friend in clarified butter. Heavy lamb and okra stew mixed with clarified butter. Tahini covered everything (I love this stuff). Diabetes inducing Kunefe and other sugary treats. Egyptians are definitely not following any sugar-free south beach diets.

Other than those three risks, and maybe the chance of a terrible car accident (which was fairly high today as my cab driver slipped dodged large trucks, drove on the shoulder and squeezed between semi-trailers while taking me to the airport). All the while frequently glancing over at me while he taught me Arabic. “Ana Geheddaaa, It’s VERY Good!” he exclaimed over and over.

So, yes – Cairo is safe. Although not particularly peaceful. Every Egyptian I have encountered has been more than helpful and friendly. I’d say so far, other than the food, the people are what make Cairo great.

Cairene Specialty: Kushari

2010-02-09T22:31:00.000-08:00

In Seattle, one can find cheap street cuisine from all corners of the world recreated for trendy, wealthier consumers to enjoy. From Mexico, we have the taco. From Greece, the gyro, or Turkey, the doner. We even have a taco truck, which was featured in the NY Times, that serves Korean BBQ. Cheap food marketed to the lowest classes is being taken upscale - and this is a global phenomenon. In Cairo, that equivalent, which is yet to hit the United States, would be Kushari.

"Small, medium or large?" my server asked at a small Kushari restaurant in Cairo. Those were my only options - not that I knew any better from looking at my Arabic menu. I enjoyed my first taste of Kushari, a famous Cairene dish, on Sunday afternoon. Well, I guess I enjoyed it... but honestly, it was just okay. However, in fairness, I think I should give it a second shot... nonetheless, I did enjoy "partaking" in this very common local eating tradition.

Kushari is a traditional Egyptian Cairene meal that consists of a strange combination of a main base of macaroni noodles, spaghetti, rice, black lentils, chick peas, garlic sauce and a spicy tomato chili sauce, all topped with fried onions. It is sold from carts by street vendors, in restaurants (many of which specialize in Kushari) and is even made at home. I've heard it described as Egyptian Chili... I'd say more like the Egyptian version of Spaghetti Bolognese.

The Kushari maker works quickly to feed so many people. He places fresh macaroni pasta in a bowl to then be topped with the strange combination of lentils, chickpeas, friend onions, spaghetti, and a spicy tomato sauce.

I enjoyed my first taste at modern, quick service restaurant that served only Kushari and lots of it. The interior reminded me of a trendy, fast food restaurant one might find in the US. Bright color-coordinated theme of orange, yellow and green. Well lit with shiny furniture - definitely not a traditional, street food joint but a restaurant catering to the middle and upper class. A bit ironic given Kushari's popularity due to how inexpensive it is. However, the transformation of cheap street foods into trendy dishes is a global phenomenon and Egypt has definitely caught on.

The clientelle was fun to watch. A group of four girls wearing brightly colored sweaters and headscarves whispered back and forth across their table - clearly gossiping. Several businessmen in suits were taking lunch. A couple held hands under the table sipping Pepsi and devouring two large bowls.

Kushary is eaten for breakfast, lunch and dinner. An untested Kushary Recipe.

A big pile of fried onions, many stacks of "to-go" bowls, and the tireless efforts of these two men point to the immense popularity of Kushari. How many bowls do they serve a day?

Everyone in Cairo has an opinion of the best Kushari. All the guidebooks mention Abou Tarek. I have not been there but will hopefully have a chance when I give it a second try.

Downtown Cairo - Airport to Hotel Transfer

2010-02-08T08:46:00.000-08:00

Cool Photo.

Egyptian Lunch - Abou Shakra

2010-02-08T08:45:00.000-08:00

Hoummos.

Kebab & Kofta Platter.

Okra stew with Lamb.

My goofy servers wanted to pose with every dish I ordered.

Solid food. Mostly locals in the area. Abou Shakra.

Cairo: Photos from Day 1

2010-02-07T12:46:00.000-08:00

Cairo has honestly left me too tired to write much, but I thought I would at least share some photos.

I came across this Camel while browsing a food market in downtown Cairo. Not sure who owned it or what purpose it served; however, it did not look happy.

I came across this Jolly man frying Falafel patties at a small shop in the Garden City neighborhood of Cairo. Businessmen dressed in suits lined out the door and down the street awaiting a modest, but tasty falafel lunch. Stands such as these are a dime-a-dozen in Cairo, but not all had a line like this place.

Known as Ta'miyya in Cairo, but more commonly called Falafel, this deep fried patty is made from spiced chickpeas or fava beans. In Cairo, and across Egypt, Falafel is made exclusively from Fava. Maybe as a product of this, I have noticed the falafel is crisper and more patty-like than in the US, rather than spherical and soft. Falafel, in Arabic, is an adjective for crunchy which is a great way to describe the texture of the patty which is commonly wrapped in a laffa (flat, thin pita) and garnished with salad, spicy sauce, etc. Upon biting into the patty, the outer brown crust splits to reveal a bright green interior. Unexpected, this is caused by parsley blended into the mix before frying.

I enjoyed an awesome falafel dinner on my first night in town at a place called Felfela, a place enjoyed by tourists and locals alike.

Hungry for Falafel in the US? Try to find a Maoz near you.

Want to make Falafel? An unvetted recipe.

I came across this colorful fruit stand in downtown Cairo. I loved the merchandising.

Pita is sold everywhere in Cairo. Often presented like you see above, a pile on a wooden board. Where does it come from? I assume, similar to Morocco, small bakeries all over the city churn out thousands of pitas a day to be distributed by a wide network of resellers.

With a coffee shop per every two hundred inhabitants of Cairo, the cafe is very much engrained in the Cairene culture. Sheesha, tea, coffe, and backgammon are just a few of the ways men pass the day in Coffee Shops. Men? what about women? From what I can tell, the cafe culture is largely male-dominated. I sat and enjoyed a coffee at the coffee shop above near Orabi Square. Even at 8 AM, the man to my left was enjoying a Sheesha.

A very good bakery in downtown Cairo. In the morning, these bakeries churn out tons of breakfast pastries. From plain baguettes and croissants to more elaborate treats with date puree fillings. Nothing beats a warm pastry in the morning.

Cairo

2010-02-05T11:52:00.000-08:00

Cairo.

Sitting in the airport, I am dressed like a modern, iPod toting Indiana Jones. A khaki military shirt with custom pockets sewn on in Ghana. Brown boots and a dark green sports watch. My passport tucked into my breast pocket. Camera safely in my side satchel and a backpack full of notebooks and reading material. I barely notice that my Seattle’s Best coffee is not very good, awful actually, because I cannot contain my excitement for Cairo. An adventure awaits.

To provide a bit of background, I will spend the next three weeks in Cairo (returning Feb. 27) on a work engagement for Microsoft. Yes, Microsoft has an office in Cairo, like most parts of the world, that focuses on marketing our products to local and regional customers. I am headed there to learn all about their business.

The focus of my trip is work. Actually, that really excites me. I have lived, studied, hiked, biked, swam and fished abroad, among other things, but I have never, ever worked abroad. I am excited to engage a very different culture in a professional environment. Will we smoke Shisha at lunch? Sip mint tea in every meeting? I do know one thing, unlike Microsoft Corporate, people will not be wearing jeans and polos to the office in Egypt. I came prepared.

All in all, I expect the experience will be challenging and rewarding.

In terms of Cairo, I arrive on Saturday, Feb. 6th around 4:45pm. Leaving Friday at noon, it is a long flight. The first night I am staying at the Windsor Hotel in downtown Cairo ($70 per night). While not the newest, nicest and fanciest hotel, I am excited because it has “old-world” charm. Like many seek to romantically engage Paris, I have the same ideas for Cairo. I have been cautioned not to get too excited.

However, the Windsor is reminiscent of the days when Cairo was full of British officers drinking at the hotel bar, which remains as it was then. I am also excited about the location – in the hustle and bustle of downtown Cairo. I requested a room with a street view and balcony.

Don’t worry. I am not completely delusional: I have been warned. With almost 20 million people crammed into the city and suburbs, Cairo is hectic… and that excites me.

Upon arrival, I have about 36 hours in downtown Cairo before I have to move outside the city to my “work” hotel. As you can imagine, Microsoft’s office is in a corporate business park about 30 minutes away from downtown Cairo. And with traffic at rush hour, 30 minutes can become one and a half hours. So we opted to stay nearby in the Hilton Pyramids Golf Resort. While not my idea of an adventurous Egyptian hotel, I cannot complain.

I have a whole host of eateries, excursions, and experiences in mind for Cairo. The Khan market? A visit to American University of Cairo? Eating local Koshary? But I have opted not to plan much. I will let my first 36 hours fall to chance.

Recommended Movie: Downfall

2010-01-20T16:49:00.000-08:00

I recently opened a Netflix account. It is great - for $8.99 per month, I can get as many movies as I can watch and return by mail (about a 3/4 day process if you are efficient). So --- I was pretty excited to receive the first film on my list: Downfall. It was recommended by Netflix given the movie preferences I noted on my account: Foreign Films, History, Drama, Documentaries. I had never heard of it before --- skeptical, I loaded it into my cheap and very slow Panasonic DVD player.

This movie blew me away.

Downfall, a German-Austrian production (2004), chronicles the dramatic final days of Adolf Hitler's life inside his Berlin Bunker. While the Russian army surrrounds and advances to within a few hundred meters of the bunker, Hitler's team and Army slowly dwindle --- some die, others flee. This film captures the intense emotional swings from defiance to depression as Hitler and his closest followers await their end; whatever that may be.

Bruno Ganz portrayal of Hitler is outstanding - capturing his delusional response to his impending demise and his contradictory softness and care for the women in his life. Also, I really enjoyed getting to see a very different perspective on Hitler: that of his secretary, Traudl Junge. There are several other very interest parallel stories. Without going into much more detail, I can honestly say this was one of the most captivating movies I have ever watched. I highly recommend it and hope you enjoy it as much as I did.

The film was nominated for the Academy Award for Best Foreign Language Film.

Shotgun + Nice Weather + Trap Field + Carolina BBQ + NFL Playoffs = A Great way to spend a free Sunday

2010-01-11T08:40:00.000-08:00

Shooting trap at the Kenmore Shooting Range in Bothell, WA.

After a couple hours of shooting trap, I plugged the words, "BBQ Bothell" into my phone's browser. I sifted through a few random listings and then I found it: Carolina Smoke. I had a good feeling about this one... and the girl my phone call confirmed. The restaurant was open and they served authentic Carolina Style BBQ.

If you are unfamiliar with the regional varieties of BBQ -- Carolina style is known for its pulled pork (see photo below). Unlike Texas that focuses on smokes and rubs, the Carolinas (like KC style) is all about the sauce. In Eastern North Carolina, the main ingredients for the sauce are vinegar and hot peppers; however the style at Carolina Smoke is different. Rather than vinegar, the specialty BBQ sauce is made with a sweet apple butter and is definitely tomato based. Did I mention? It is damn good! There is also a vinegar based sauce to try as well.

Carolina Smoke also serves great baby back ribs, a pretty solid brisket and well-smoked chicken. In terms of sides, the Jalapeno corn bread and baked beans were legit.

Carolina Smoke

23806 Bothell Everett Hwy Ste A

Bothell Wa, 98021
425-949-8672

Movie Recommendation: The Proposition

2010-01-10T21:20:00.000-08:00

I recently watched the Proposition. It was recommended as a movie of the decade by my local video store. It is a western set in late 19th century Australia. I have been on a Western flick kick lately, and this this film certainly did not disappoint. I hope you enjoy this movie. Note: its pretty violent.

Thailand Foot Rub - $1

2010-01-10T00:04:00.001-08:00

Chang Mai, Thailand. Sunday Night Market. March 2008.

Downtown Seattle Architecture

2010-01-10T00:00:00.000-08:00

Seattle Markets

2010-01-09T09:22:00.000-08:00

Only in Georgia

2010-01-04T13:30:00.000-08:00

Only in Georgia

I spent Christmas in Macon visiting my aunt and uncle on my mother’s side of the family. I’d never been to Macon, or even Georgia for that matter, and from the Fried Chicken and Sweet Potato Pie to the Georgian Greek Revival architecture and historic Rose Hill cemetery, this trip was a treat.

Downtown Macon. Lots of great old buildings. Unfortunately, many of them are empty thanks to suburban malls and lifestyle centers that shoppers and dollars away from downtown Macon. The irony? They have created outdoor malls that resemble the old downtown and do a poor job doing so- such a shame.

Macon was untouched by Sherman during the Civil War thus preserving some beautiful old buildings. In the center of the photo, you will find a statue commemorating a famous Confederate soldier.

We stayed at the historic 1842 Inn. Upon my arrival, I was greeted by two guests with strong Georgian accents. You know, that real slow, genteel drawl. Walking into the historic, classically Georgian inn coupled with southern hospitality & the accents was a great way to kick-off the trip.

At our hotel, excuse my French, but this lady made the best God Damn scrambled eggs I have ever eaten. Served on the typical Southern breakfast alongside homemade cheese grits, fresh biscuits and bacon. A heart attack on a plate that tastes sooo good. I had the cook give me a quick lesson on how to scramble eggs and it is ohhh soo simple (like it should be). Plenty of butter, don’t pre-scramble the whites and yellows and don’t over cook ‘em. Did I mention that you must also have the magic touch.

We ate southern Fried Chicken from Mama Louis at the H&H Restaurant near downtown Macon. Mama Louis has been serving southern home cooking since anyone in Macon can remember. She is famous for feeding the Alman Brothers and, judging by the framed photos on the wall – a large variety of other well-known personalities.

I enjoyed a couple pieces of deep fried chicken, okra, black eyed peas and collard greens. The finishing treat was a surprisingly good Sweet Potato Pie. Mmm mmm delicious.

We visited the Macon Terminal Station – currently being renovated. There used to be a waiting room for African Americans, the “Colored Waiting Room.” That definitely took a second to register --- not even 50 years ago.

Guns are proudly on display at a downtown Pawn shop. Secession planning?

A distinct tombstone remembering a young boy at the historic Rose Hill cemetery, the resting place of the Alman Brothers as well as many, many confederate soldiers.

The Hay House. One of the most opulent and expensive homes ever built in Macon, and probably Georgia. The style is “Italianate” also known as over the top wedding cake. A very grand house with an even grander interior. An interesting place to visit (we took an abbreviated tour).

Did I mention that Georgia has more Waffle Houses than you can imagine? One, sometimes two, at every exit of the highway. No joke. I’ll have to stop in next time…

A Reassuring Letter

2009-12-16T08:21:00.001-08:00

My friend, Brett, is visiting my other friend, Karim, in Dubai this week. I took a similar trip just over a week ago. I wrote Brett the following e-mail this morning:

Brett,

Make sure that karim takes you to Mussandam (the northern tip of Oman) and then finds two young Omani men to take you out into the Gulf waters on an obsolete boat with a small lawnmower engine, no lifeboats, no radio, no communication devices, and no life jackets... oh I forgot to mention.,you can only do that if there is also a growing storm and the original tour you book is cancelled plus everyone else you ask except these two people refuses to take you out. However, these two young men just need money and are willing to risk their lives for $30. Now, this final step is crucial for the ultimate experience: Don't turn the boat back to shore until you are many miles away and the storm really starts. Lightning cracks, a heavy rain drenches you and large waves are crashing your boat, knocking things over, and seesawing the rickety wooden boat back and forth just like the pirateship ride at a theme park. Your knuckles should be white as you grip onto something for fear of falling into the ocean to never be seen again (Remember: there is no such thing as coast guard rescue out here, if you are lucky - you might get picked up by a crew of Iranians smuggling cigarettes across the gulf). Now, ask the Omani boatsmen if everything is okay, once he replies, "Inshallah" in Arabic and Karim unreassuringly translates, "God Willing" then... only then have you got a true taste of Dubai.

Enjoy.

mickey

From Himalayas to Helmand

2009-12-11T09:57:00.001-08:00

I'd love to do this type of reporting.

Very Cool World Maps

2009-12-08T18:21:00.000-08:00

These world maps resemble underground subway diagrams.

2009-11-30T17:42:00.001-08:00

Borneo - Suffering

2009-11-03T09:42:00.000-08:00

Some of my readers may remember that I spent nearly 10 days in Borneo last year. I had a very authentic and wild time trekking the Jungles and living with locals. My fantastic experience was made possible by a Swiss-German man, Herman Sholz (see photo below), who I still keep in contact with.

He recently sent me the following link (I actually recognize a few people in the pictures of pigs being slaughtered):

http://advocateviews.blogspot.com/2009/10/call-to-spirits-to-stop-damned-dam.html

This is Herman's Email to Me:

Hello Mickey,

Something new has come up – to keep you updated: the government is planning to build a dam in Kaiduan, near where I live now, and flood the Upper Papar River with the effect that the whole area we visited would drown in a vast lake. Yep, comes kind of a shock, and rather unexpectedly, not even our local politicians were aware of it when the news leaked a couple of weeks ago. They are against it, which is a silver of hope, but just a silver. Why flood this particular area when you can flood another valley close by where there are no inhabitants, and no traditional trails… oh, there was a feasibility study which apparently showed that the area in question was uninhabited. Yeah, just some 2500 locals in 9 villages, negligible, isn’t it… now there are conflicting news, some sources say the dam project (suitable pun, isn’t it) is approved, others say it is only in planning, others again say it was just a preliminary feasibility study. I won’t become an activist – can’t really if I wish to stay here and I really do – but the socio-economic impact of such a dam would be enormous, the impact on the environment catastrophic.

Below an article that was in our newspapers, taken up on Ronnie Klassen’s blog with some thoughts of his own (rather matching mine). The highlights and text in italic are by myself, and the highlighted village names are where we were… some food for your article…

Best regards, Herman

And an article from the local newspaper:

Wednesday, October 7, 2009
Sabah Natives Strikes Back...."we'll defend our lands and rights with our lives"

Malaysia's Prime Minister Dato'Seri Najib's infamous 1Malaysia, People First, Performance Now slogan is now nothing more than just hot air and hogwash. Sabah’s indigenous communities in the interior of Penampang are bemoaning and up in arms against the RM 2.8 Billion Kaiduan Dam which has been approved by the State Government of Sabah. The dam which has yet to obtain any Environment Impact Assessment (EIA) and Social Impact Assessment was given the nod by the State Cabinet via a Letter of Intent(right) to WCT Berhad - yes the same contractor as the Kota Kinabalu International Airport.

The dam, if allowed to commence construction, will submerge 12 square km of forest and agricultural lands. What is worse, it will totally wipe out 9 villages that have been there for hundreds of years. This is a clear violation of the rights of the natives of Penampang for “Prior Free and Informed Consent” must be obtained as stated in the United Nations Declaration on the rights of indigenous people of which Malaysia is a signatory.

The affected villages are Buayan, Terian, Babagon Laut, Timpayasa, Tiku, Longkogungan, Kalanggaan, Pongobonon and Kionop. In addition agricultural land in the 5 villages of Bolotikan, Koiduan, Bisuang, Kogopon and Limbahau alongside the Papar river will be severely affected; notwithstanding the complete destruction of the historical heritage and the unique biological and eco-system of Papar and the Crocker range.

I visited one of the would be affected villages and had the opportunity to speak to Nousi Giun, Chairman of the Joint Action Committee against the dam. It's unbelievable and shocking that after 46 years on the formation of Malaysia, our journey to the village is a clear shame with all the government slogans and promises-the infrastructures are pathetically still 46 years behind time. To sum up my 1 hour chat with Nousi Giun - he made it explicitly clear that "they’re not interested in any compensation, relocation or compromise. We will defend our native land with our lives". The population of the 9 affected villages is approximately 2500, all bonafide Sabahan natives.

What is even more mind-boggling is that WCT Berhad had the cheek to state in their feasibility study report to the State Government that the "dammed dam site” was uninhabited, which is clearly misleading. No one came to the ground and consulted us, added Nousi. The villager’s plight is also supported by environmentalist and renowned NGO's such as PACOS, JICA and JOAS among others who have also provided financial aid in uplifting the living standards of the villagers running in millions.

On the political front and for the record, Penampang is under UPKO, a component member of the coalition of UMNO/Barisan Nasional. The MP who was once rejected by his own constituents is none other than Tan Sri Bernard Dompok. It was reliably learnt that Bernard's silence was because of UMNO's involvement in this dam project. What is even more shocking is that while the natives of Penampang are being ousted from their own lands, Bernard Dompok is busy opening UPKO branches in West Malaysia and recruiting the Orang Asli as members.

Recently as well, I had this rare opportunity in engaging with Datuk Masidi Manjun-Sabah Minister of Tourism and Environmental in Facebook. The engagement was so intense that he flip flop in his text. He had the cheek to claim ignorance in the Koiduan Dam project and further added that even Bernard Dompok is also unaware of the Dam which is costing RM 2.8 Billion of tax payers money. If this is not conscientious stupidity, then Sabahans have voted a bunch of morons into government. Is the Sabah Government being administered by a kitchen cabinet, and on a need to know basis? Who is actually calling the shots in Sabah?

The Koiduan Dam is said to be 3 times larger than the Babagon Dam, also situated in Penampang and richly surrounded by timber. Interestingly enough, during my visit, I noticed that logging has already started which perhaps is one of the reasons why the government is adamant in pursuing the project.

The question to ask here is, "Is this development or destruction? If it's development for whom is it and at whose expense?"

Are Sabah's natives part of One Malaysia or Gone Malaysia?

The government always seems to be putting the cart before the bull - all under the name of development - a convenient and useful catch-word to camouflage corruption, arrogance and incompetence.

A memorandum is currently in the process and the villagers will not hesitate to hand-deliver the memorandum to his Majesty our beloved King, if the State Government of Sabah proceeds with the dam.

2009-10-23T17:42:00.001-07:00

Embroidery from Ghana: Quiz Time

2009-10-20T18:41:00.000-07:00

A friend recently emailed me the following image. She created an embroidery from the photo of my students in Ghana taking a math quiz. She is framing and sending it to me. Very cool!

Photo or Painting?

2009-10-15T09:09:00.000-07:00

Check out this fantastic article on NPR about Photorealism - Photo or Painting?

Can you guess which is the photo and which is the painting?

Wine Release Party + Truly Turkish Meal

2009-10-14T15:22:00.000-07:00

Last night, after a hard day of work, I had the pleasure of unwinding with 8 tastes (and several "revisiting" pours) of Wilridge Wines at their winery's Fall release party. The best part - the winery is located in the heart of one of Seattle's most beautiful neighborhoods, Madrona, in the middle of the city and only a few minutes drive from my house. From the outside, the winery looks like any other house on the block. White, wooden and very vertical to provide views of Lake Washington over the other homes down below. However, slide open the rackey metal garage door at the base of the home and your olfactory senses are immediately imbibed with the smell of red and white wine. With my nostrils aroused, I quickly pleased my palate and appeased my stress levels as well.

One of the most interesting aspects of this tasting was getting to compare Wilridge's newest releases with older vintages that came from the exact same vines. There was a Merlot from 2006 and 2003 to compare - surprisingly, I enjoyed the newer one. It had a bit more mmpphhh for me. I don't know if that is a technical wine term or not? Mmmmppphh. I was also extremely impressed with the '08 Pinot Grigio and '07 Semillon. The Nebbiollo Old Vines were also very unique. I left with two wines - purchased yes, because they tasted great but more because I was so impressed with this truly entrepreneurial and passionate operation. Getting to meet the winemakers and hear their storyw as very fun. Inviting people - I'd recommend you check em out. And if you live around Seattle, this Saturday and Sunday, Wilridge is crushing their most recent harvest at their winery in Madrona. The recent cold weather froze many of the vines and so everything has been harvested in a rush. All are invited to participate and this includes a great lunch prepared by the winemakers!

After drinking some wine, and working up an appetite, we walked two blocks south to Bistro Turkuaz, a quaint Turkish restaurant that had been open little over two years. I was more than pleasantly surprised with the entire experience: easily the best Turkish meal I have had outside of Turkey - and I've tried a lot of Turkish places.

The restaurant is owned by a Turkish woman who moved here from Germany - her German accent definitely belies her Turkish heritage and cooking abilities. She employs her children - so it is truly a family run operation. The restaurant is small - maybe enough seating for 30 and the menu is short. But, very sweet as is the wine list (although I recommend ordering an Efes, an excellent Turkish pilsner).

The house specialty appetizer is Acuka - a roasted red pepper and walnut spread that comes served with warm pita for dipping. This dish is sprinkled with a bit of magic. The Mucver was also excellent - a pan-friend Zuchinni pancake with yogurt sauce. Make sure to request some sumac and red pepper spice to sprinkle over your dishes - I was impressed she had it, something not so hard to find but definitely common in any true Turkish restaurant.

So most Turkish restaurants serve kebabs and kofte, but not like Bistro Turkuaz - this restaurant takes it to another level. Not only are the spices and texture just right, but unlike many Turkish joints, this bistro places emphasis on presentation. The meat comes skewered on elegant, ornamented metal skewers. The mixed Kebab plate was a great way to sample a range of meats with my highlight being the Kofte - a minced and mixed lamb/beef patty. Mmm mmm delicious. Remembering this meal is making me hungry. We also enjoyed the Turkuaz Special - a grilled lamb dish served over cubed pita and Patlican Sote (oven roasted eggplant) all topped with tomato and yogurt sauce. Excellent as well.

To complete our meal, we shared a portion of homemade walnut baklava. Unlike most baklava I have eaten, overly drizzled in simple sugar and honey, this was not too sweet, not too dull - it was just right. Enjoy that with a Turkish coffee, and from start to finish, this meal is the real deal.

Details:
Wilridge Winery is located at 1416 34th Avenue Seattle, WA USA.
Phone Number: 206-325-3051
http://www.wilridgewinery.com/

Bistro Turkuaz. 1114 34th Ave. Seattle, WA 98122
Phone Number: 206-324-3039
http://www.bistroturkuaz.com/

Windows 7 Party Photos

2009-10-13T08:56:00.000-07:00

See previous Windows 7 Launch Party post for background details on why we dressed so nerdy...

A toast to good ol' Windows 7.

My friend Adam gettin down and nerdy.

Rakesh and Friend - they missed the nerdy dress-up memo. So I warped the photo to make em look cool.

Bernard + Adam = Extraordinerd

Party on... or not. Yes - the night was slow to start...

Did I mention I baked a homemade Windows 7 cake? recipe at http://www.singleguycooks.blogspot.com/

Wouldn't want the glasses to fall off... I couldn't see a thing without 'em.

And the night ended out on CapHill - dressed as you see us now. The outfits were a hit with the ladies and instrumental in continuining our late night celebration of Windows 7 - which releases on October 22 and truly is a great product. No joke.

Gayle Pescud's "Ghanaian food goes global and 'You are invited' "

2009-10-12T08:33:00.000-07:00

Gayle Pescud lives and works (volunteers) in Ghana. She is also an avid writer about the Ghanaian people and their way of life. Her recent post, Ghanaian food goes global and "You are invited" takes readers on a delectable, stomach churning ride through the typical Ghanaian menu. She draws on the experiences of fellow foreigners who have enjoyed and survived Ghanaian food. She even quoted my blog twice.

Her post begins, "Mushy, gooey, fragrant, grainy, tasty, starchy, spicy, creamy, rotund, freaking amazing—these are just some of the adjectives bloggers use to describe Ghanaian cuisine. From Seoul to London, Guangzhou to Tamale, people are blogging about Ghanaian food."

Enjoy.

Windows 7 Launch Party: I'm a PC Geek!

2009-10-11T17:46:00.000-07:00

In an effort to celebrate the release of Windows 7 (on Oct. 22), support my company (Microsoft), and in the spirit of good fun (host a themed party), I was one of the many Microsofties who hosted a Windows 7 Launcy party this weekend.

Here's the deal: "Microsoft invited members of the public to apply to become official Windows 7 Launch Party hosts. Selected hosts receive online access to various party materials and a Web site to which they can upload photos from their party and chat with other party hosts across the country."

I was selected as a host... but my party was not the typical one. It was far from what Microsoft suggested: click here to see what the company was thinking.

While I am certainly a proud supporter of the company, and very excited for Windows 7, I was not about to make popcorn and sit my laptop with friends to show them all th:e cool new features. I had grander plans and I just wanted to have a good time... the party's theme: I'm a PC Geek. That meant - show up dressed like a PC Nerd (see the invite I made to the left).

What is a PC Geek? Like this guy to the left- the one from the PC and Mac Ads. I wanted to make a slight mockery of the party - but not because I thought the party was a bad idea or uncool (I think Microsoft generated great buzz with the party), but because that is what makes it fun and got people excited. Furthermore, dressed as nerds, the plan was to head out on the town that night and evangelize the product even further. When asked, why the hell are you dressed like that at a bar? "Because Windows 7 is about to launch and we ar celebrating!"

I hoped that the party could have real impact beyond my circle of friends. So what happened? Well, it was last night and it was a blast! I'll be posting photos and details from the party (which took place last night) shortly - it was definitely a hit!

Santa Fe Photos Continued

2009-09-15T17:13:00.000-07:00

Santa Fe's Multicolored Truck - Three Views.

2009-09-15T17:07:00.000-07:00

Santa Fe: An Appetite for Art and Eating

2009-09-13T09:46:00.000-07:00

So what brought me to Santa Fe?

With an extended Labor Day, something I now appreciate as an employed person, I decided to join my parents for their last weekend of a full month’s stay in Santa Fe. I took a late Southwest flight on Friday from Seattle to see my parents in their favorite get away and soon to be second home. After weeks of partying and adjusting to Seattle, nothing sounded better than a relaxing weekend in Santa Fe with my two favorite people in the world.

Oh and it was fun too…

Art was certainly the theme of the last three days. In a literal sense, we looked at paintings, prints, photography, crafts – you name it. Santa Fe was hosting an arts & crafts market in the central plaza, a common occurrence, and we spent a little bit of each day perusing the many stalls. Of interesting note: Santa Fe has become the second biggest art market in the country behind NYC. Surprising until you visit Santa Fe’s many, many galleries and artisan shops. At this point, it is getting more difficult to sift through all the average work (to put it nicely) and find unique, quality work.

That said, I am proud to announce I purchased my first piece of art --- something I hope to continue and incorporate into my blog. My new apartment is beautiful, but the walls are bare. “May all in this kitchen be blessed & all that have been here & all that will be here” reads the bottom of the #18 of 36 print I purchased from artist Jitsudo Ancheta and his wife. I spotted the piece on my first day in the market – and bought it on my last hour. It is a wood block print inspired by the artist’s time as a monk in Japan studying Zen Buddhism. I really enjoyed speaking with the artist. His passion for his work was evident and he certainly emanated the peaceful vibe that his artwork professes. The print itself was created using various colors of ink applied to a hand carved woodblock and pressed onto the paper. I think this piece will look fantastic in my kitchen.

The Art of Eating

We also ate well --- a given whenever my family gets together (which has prompted my new blog: single guy cooking. In Santa Fe, every meal was cooked at home (above: BBQ Brisket Tacos with cole slaw on fresh corn tortilla) with one exception: the tamales at Johnny’s and, damn, are they good.

Johnny’s is a small convenience store in town that, along with its owner, hasn’t changed since the day it opened. Fresh tamales are brought in from the small town of Espanola and kept in a small box on the counter. Three choices, all three are good but the red chile pork will melt in your mouth.

Did I mention that every meal was spicy, even dessert: a Mexican Chocolate Ice Cream by Boulder Ice Cream --- highly recommended.

Posts about our home cooked meals with recipes can be found at http://www.singleguycooks.blogspot.com/.

Hempfest 2009 - Seattle Celebrates Marijuana

2009-08-18T17:51:00.001-07:00

I don't smoke pot (I really don't)... but who could resist the amazing people watching at the world's largest marijuana festival. Direct quote from random passerby, "Hempfest is to Weed as Octoberfest is to beer." Enough said. Let the journey in photos begin.

Hempfest took place along a couple miles of ocean front park. It was quite a nice venue although the long and narrow space created quite a bit of traffic.

"Can I take your photo?" I asked.

His reponse, "I'm so high - I don't give a shit what you do." Definitely a veteran.

Check out the contraption on his back. This fellow was able to play guitar, drums and some sort of tambourine while walking around, singing, and being high as the sky.

The pot ferry --- this was definitely an occasion to dress up.

Very popular. Seattle is certainly home to some potheads. The line took over 30 minutes to reach the entrance. Most people were smoking pot in open, in line and in a very high quantity.

Wide view.
We had Vegan hippies...

and we had Christians screaming that all guys should go to hell. They were not well received.

And people were even breakdancing... while high on pot.

Seafair Sunday

2009-08-09T19:33:00.000-07:00

“We are headed through that passage under the I-90 bridge.” David signaled towards a small opening in the bridge (see photo to left). The US Navy led the way in an enormous barge, reminiscent of the water to land troop carriers seen in D-Day movies. On command, as the Navy signaled the passage was officially open, two thousand plus boats of all shapes, sizes and conditions oriented themselves in the same direction and an organized chaos ensued.

On the other side of the bridge, afternoon hydroplane races and more beer drinking in float rafts amidst other Seafair revelers awaited us. David pointed our boat towards the destination and shifted the throttle forward. Everyone wanted to get to the other side, throw down anchor, and claim a spot to continue their Sunday fun for the afternoon. With smiles on our sun tanned (or burned) faces and wind in our hair, we followed suit.

I’ll be surprised if all of these boats, with all of these intoxicated people (and drivers) will make it through that tiny gap without a problem. I thought to myself. Then again, this is the 60th anniversary of Seafair so they must know what they are doing.

Luckily, David was experienced and had positioned our boat perfectly such that we led the pack. Glancing off the stern of the boat, I watched as wake after wake from all the boats collided causing the water to chop, but do little to impede the stampede (yes, think cattle) to make the southward journey under the I-90.

A few more hours of beer, sun, rafts, and great people watching. And it is not as if the first half of our Sunday was so bad. If you thought watching the Blue Angels from the beach the day before (Saturday) was exciting, imagine watching it from a boat. From 1 to 2 pm, Navy jets (I imagine F-16s) screamed overhead – the deafening roar of the engines trailing the planes as they broke the speed barrier leaving a loop-d-loop of white smoke behind them. Stunt after stunt; my spine tingled. See photos below.
Let’s step back a second.

Last Sunday, I was fortunate to be invited out on the boat of a friend of a friend, who is now- my friend, David. A native of Seattle, David has been enjoying Seafair for as long as he could remember. I see why he still gets excited for the weekend. David had a six person speed boat – perfect for the day. Large enough that we wouldn’t get pushed around, but small and nimble to be easily operated through the crowded waters.

In its most basic sense, Seafair is just a big party on the water. What makes it so cool is the diversity of participants: from drunk frat boys and sorority girls doing keg stands and blasting music to the classic sail boat with a Paul & Shark attired crew. Enormous fishing boats are converted into day parties with barbecues, pseudo diving boards, and dance floors.
Kayaks riskily maneuver between boats – it seems people will use and do just about anything to be out on the water. Groups of smaller boats tie together and party across the decks with rafts and inner tubes drifted alongside. And we even get a taste of Mardi Gras with beads and boobs… some not so pleasant.
All in all, Seafair was a blast. Finding my way on to a boat was instrumental in making the experience. Next summer, I am determined to have my own boat and host a party of my own.

The photo above is the cut between Lake Union and Lake Washington. Below is Gas Works park - industrial buildings turn art work and a really pleasant and unique place to hang out.

Saturday at Seafair

2009-08-02T09:36:00.000-07:00

Seafair is arguably Seattle's largest summer celebration. A weekend that utilizes Lake Washington (photo left) to its maximum capacity. The ultimate goal for anyone trying to enjoy Seafair: get into the water, and preferably, on a boat.

Unfortunately, I was unable to secure a spot on a boat, Saturday, but may be lucky to enjoy a day on the water on Sunday. We will see.

The amount of boats on the water is a spectacle in itself.

All was not lost, my friend, Mike, and I found a great viewing spot from the Madrona beach park. It was quite a scene - everyone was in high spirits: grilling, swimming, and then pausing to stare upwards as the Blue Angels' Air Show roared by... definitely the highlight of my afternoon.

One of the planes dazzles viewers with a sweeping arch over the ocean.

Madrona "Beach" was a cool place to hang out. Unfortunately, I did not know to wear swim trunks.

The city closed down the I-90 bridge across Lake Washington during the air show so Seattleites could gather and watch the planes.

Aside from an air show, the weekend is full of events such as hydroplane racing, a parade, etc. Great fun!

www.Seafair.com

Seattle Weekend 2

2009-07-27T09:55:00.001-07:00

The light sunburn on my face is evidence of another great week and weekend in Seattle. More fun in the sun (photo left: on my friend's boat in Lake Washington), barbecuing on roof tops and plenty of active time spent outdoors.

Saturday:

Saturday's main event was the Capitol Hill Block Party (photo below) – an all day bash with live music, food, too much beer, and a circus of people. All in all, the event was underwhelming due to a lack of energy despite the large crowd. People watching was definitely the highlight. As I have said, Cap Hill is home to a diversity of characters – all of which were out in full form this weekend.

The headline band for the Block Party was Sonic Youth, a slightly over-the-hill rock band that many of my friends had never heard of. I was under the impression that Sonic Youth may in some way embody grunge Seattle rock so I was excited for the performance. I even "warmed up" by listening to Nirvana's Nevermind album on full blast in anticipation. Incorrect assumption. Sonic Youth failed to release my inner grunge and did not seem to appeal to many of my fellow rockers. No mosh pit. No head banging. Nothing.

Sunday in the Sun:

With 90 degree heat, I panicked that I somehow was back in Dallas on Sunday. Except Dallas does not have beautiful hiking in the woods (we ventured to Little SI mountain in North Bend only 30 minutes away) and then a beach scene at Lake Washington to rinse off the dirt and cool down the heated muscles. All in a day – hiking, lounging at the beach, tubing on a boat, then grilled steaks on a rooftop at sunset. Life is tough, Dad.

I'm still blown away by how great the summer in Seattle is. But, no place is perfect, and as we all know or have heard: Seattle can be pretty grey in the winter. I am hesitantly curious how my body, mind, and soul will react to weeks without sunlight. Only time, and cloudy weather, will tell. My friend, John, also a Texan, has a good outlook on the rainy weather: "Rather than sit inside and be depressed, I just do what I want to do… in the rain!"

------ References ------

Capitol Hill Block Party - http://www.capitolhillblockparty.com/

Little SI Mountain. http://www.mountsi.com/ - although definitely not a place to reflect in peace and solitude, Mount SI, a very popular hiking destination, is a great way to get out and exercise. It definitely beats the treadmill or stair climber in ambience and can be equally as grueling. We opted for Little SI (only a 2.4 mile trip to the summit). We wanted to be to the beach by 2 pm. Mission accomplished.

Madison Park Beach Area. – Technically not a beach, since it lacks sand, but still maintaining all the necessary beach elements: girls in bikinis, volleyball nets, a floating dock with diving board, and a refreshing lake in which to cool off between tanning sessions. http://www.seattle.gov/parks/park_detail.asp?id=369

Madison & Washington Park

2009-07-27T07:51:00.000-07:00

The size, age, and color of these trees is very representative of one of Seattle's most beautiful neighborhood on the West side of Lake Washington known as Washington Park.

A WikiPedia history lesson: Washington Park is a neighborhood in east central Seattle, Washington, named after the city park to its northwest. It is bounded on the east by 38th and 37th Avenues E. and Hillside Drive E., beyond which are Madison Park and Denny-Blaine; on the south by Lake Washington Boulevard, beyond which is Denny-Blaine and Madison Valley; on the west by Washington Park, and on the north by the private Broadmoor community and golf club.

Washington Park is home to many historic homes including one from 1907 that houses the current President of the University of Washington. This house is situated on 5 acres (20,000 m2) looking over Lake Washington and has grounds rivaled by few homes in the city. The house and land was donated to the University with the clause that it must be occupied by the President of U.W.

The neighborhood's main thoroughfares are E. Madison Street (northeast- and southwest-bound) and Lake Washington Boulevard E. (northwest- and southeast-bound).

VW Bus: A Classic

2009-07-27T07:47:00.001-07:00

I spotted this mint condition VW Bus on Capitol Hill in Seattle. One shot is in B&W with a hint of pink coloring, the other full color. I love the lines in this photo as well as the simplicity.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Volkswagen_Type_2

Ghana – Day Out with My Students

2009-07-24T13:11:00.001-07:00

Before departing from Ghana, and after four weeks of hard work, I wanted to treat my students to a day-off of school and in the city. After morning break, everyone quickly changed out of their uniforms and we were off to the Mall for lunch, shopping and to catch a movie. None of my students had been to the cinema before, most not even to the mall. It was a lot of fun!

My students enjoy lunch at Barcelo's at the Accra Shopping Mall.

The cab ride to and from the mall was cramped – seven people in a tiny car… but definitely fun.

The end of a great day of fun. My students posing in front of the school sign. The next day, Friday, was my final day as their teacher.

Seattle Week 1

2009-07-22T15:24:00.001-07:00

My ten days in Seattle have been nothing short of tremendous. A great weekend with my parents: shopping for my apartment, eating great meals, and enjoying the summer weather. Starting work at Microsoft and paving a new social path in a brand new city with a cultural wildly different than anything I have experienced before. Much like my travels abroad, if the past ten days are a bellwether of what is to come, I am in for one hell of an adventure.

Bango and Spoons: Open mic night at the Hopvine Pub (every Wednesday) brings in all sorts. This duo stole the show.

As the stereotype portrays, Seattle is an alternative city. A diverse city. An "interesting" city. I chose to live in Capitol Hill, a beautiful neighborhood up a hill and to the East of downtown. At the "summit" of the hill, one can look West across downtown to a beautiful sunset over Puget Sound and Elliot Bay, South towards a collection of mountain ranges (including, I believe, Ranier), East to Lake Washington and the Microsoft Campus in Redmond, or North to Lake Union and a collection of docks, yachts, and sea planes. The diversity of views from Capitol Hill mirrors the eclectic j cast of characters that form a very eccentric, in-your-face community. From multimillion dollar mansions to park picnic tables, one can find all types of accommodation in Capitol Hill. Starving artists, grunge rockers, hipsters, tech yuppies/geeks, and gardening grandma are just a few that inhabit the many spaces.

My new apartment, not quite furnished but still beautiful. It was constructed in 1930 by a famous Seattle architect, Fred Anhalt.

Capitol Hill is home to much of Seattle's best nightlife and clubbing as well. In my opinion, a far more unique place to party than Belltown. Belltown, an amalgamation of new condos and chic loungey bars, is a newer neighborhood often deemed as "yuppie". It lacks the character of Capitol Hill and seriously belies the Seattle counterculture and alternative scene. Although at first glance I was a bit skeptical of Capitol Hill (imagine the lower east side of NYC… on crack)- I have really come to love it!

Seattle Summer (Photo Below: not the prettiest view, but looking over Puget Sound from a rooftop BBQ)

Since arriving, nothing has held truer than the fact: Seattleites seize the summer. The weather, vibe, and ambience of a Seattle summer are unparalleled to anywhere else I have been in the United States. Amazing weather coupled with limitless activities and a frenzy to take advantage of the sun creates several months of splendor. Nightly barbecues, day hikes, kayaking and a festival every weekend are just a few of the many ways I have enjoyed Seattle's summer in only two short weeks. I'd recommend visiting now!

Reference Guide:

Activities:

Hiking Tiger Mountain. A short 20-minute ride from downtown Seattle, Tiger Mountain off I-90 (Exit 20) is a great way to exercise without going to the gym. The short hike can be approached on an easier 2.5 mile hike to the summit, or a strenuous straight shot to the top up the Cable Line route. I opted for the latter.
Kayaking. I couldn't think of a better way to get a total body workout than two hours of kayaking from Lake Union to Lake Washington. Don't forget the views are amazing. Check out http://www.nwoc.com/ (The Northwest Outdoor Center) for more information and rentals.

Shopping:

Area 51. Located in the heart of Capitol Hill, this showroom and store displays great vintage and new mid-century modern furniture. From vintage George Nelson dressers to new Eames rockers, this is a great place to find a few unique pieces to furnish an apartment.
Harem. Morocco, India, Persia and more. Harem stocks a wide range of antiques and newer items from all over the world though seemingly mostly with a Middle Eastern or Near Asian touch. They also offer belly dancing classes; I'll pass.
Chartreuse. Similar to Area 51, but with a much more eccentric owner, this Belltown shop stocks a wide range of vintage and new furnishing and home accessories. Highly recommended if you are after Design Within Reach style furniture at much lower prices.
Ballard. Ballard is not a shop, but an area or neighborhood. Ballard Ave and Market Ave are home to a great market every Sunday and a collection of really cool shops, restaurants, and entertainment. A nice change of pace from Seattle, this neighborhood has a small town feel and a young population to enjoy. Recommended Shops: Blackbird (Clothing), Collective (Furniture), Volterra (Food), La Carta de Oaxaca (The Best Mexican Food in Seattle, no questions asked!)

Restaurants:

Lark. Located in a small house on 12^th Ave in southern Capitol Hill, the unique ambience matches the unique presentation of all the dishes. In terms of taste, the flavors got progressively better as the night went on. The best dishes were the fresh Burrata starter and the meat based dishes stole the show. A special pig's trotter (pig's feet) was very good – reminiscent of a crispy pulled pork formed into a cake. And to end, the mission fig tartin with homemade malt ice cream filled me up complete.
Dahlia Lounge. My father went to Dahlia Lounge over a decade ago during a trip to Seattle for business. At the time, Tom Douglas was a hot chef- known nationally for his approach to Pacific NW cuisine. He likened Douglas to Texas' Stephan Pyles who has turned Southwest and Texas cuisine into a gastronomical art. Unlike we expected, Dahlia Lounge had aged well like a fine French wine. The menu is diverse with a focus on seafood and pan-Asian flavors – Indian, Chinese, Japanese, and Southeast Asian as well. Dahlia Lounge cooks Salmon right – but the halibut filet and clam dish took top honors. My dad claims it was the best clams of his life.
Black Bottle. Black Bottle is a tightly packed restaurant in a corner space in the heart of Belltown. Patrons spill out onto the street enjoying excellent drinks, really well-priced gourmet food, and great people watching. Black Bottle comes highly recommended as a drinks and dinner destination before a night out in Belltown. The value can't be beat.

Harriman State Park

2009-07-07T17:27:00.000-07:00

"Beware: Bear Frequenting Area" the sign read.

That definitely caught my eye when I entered the Harriman State Park in Island Park, Idaho this morning by mountain bike. However, sighting a bear was not my goal, I wanted to see a moose. I pedaled up, down, and around the beautiful state park for over two and a half hours - not a moose I found. However, I was not disappointed. The natural beauty of Harriman State Park and the peaceful solidarity I found while riding the park's 20+ miles of trails was more than a pleasant surprise.

For only being 11,000 acres and next door to Yellowstone, arguably the United States' greatest national park, Harriman State Park has a lot to offer (its actually part of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem). The Henry's Fork river meanders through the park, two lakes make for beautiful bird watching, and trails for hiking, horseback riding, and biking, are plentiful. The park is well-kept: trails are well-cut but still natural, no trash, no "graffiti", and best of all --- motorized roads are limited thus motorized homes do not find a way to block beautiful views.

Given its proximity to Yellowstone, many most likely drive right past Harriman. Fine by me. Probably Harriman's greatest treasure is the quiet. In my two and a half hours in the park, I saw maybe ten people. And that was only around the main parking lots and central destinations. Once on the 4 mile bike path to Golden Lake, I didn't see a sole... and luckily not a bear.

Harriman also has a unique history as a cattle ranch, which seems to still be working, and was owned by the Union Pacific Railroad investors. The railroad ranch buildings, old ranch barns, and original cabins are still in existence. Cabins can be rented for overnight stays --- camping in tents is not allowed.

Finally, riding through the park, watching the fly fishermen working the day's hatch and trumpeter swans gliding above Golden Lake is made even better by the beautiful view of the Tetons in the distance.

A Bit of History (Not Written by Me)

The Railroad Ranch In 1902, several officials of the Oregon Shortline Railroad and other investors purchased what is now Harriman State Park. Called the Railroad Ranch, the property was the private retreat of the Harrimans of Union Pacific Railroad fame and the Guggenheims, then prominent in copper.

The rich wildlife habitat has been preserved since the turn of the century when the owners established a private hunting reserve and working cattle ranch. For 75 years, the ranch maintained healthy game, waterfowl and fish populations, allowing todays park visitors to observe a rare concentration of wildlife in its scenic, natural surrounding.

Twenty-seven of the original Railroad Ranch buildings, from the cookhouse to the horse barn, are still intact, furnished and carefully maintained.

Overnight Stays

Although camping is not available, the group facility is open year-round. It is perfect for overnight church outings, family reunions and ski weekends with friends. If you're looking for a little more privacy for your small group, how about renting the original Ranch Manager's House?

This four-bedroom log home has a modern kitchen, a rustic knotty-pine living room with a stone fireplace and a screened sun porch. It is fully furnished and rents for $150 per night. There is a non-refundable $25 reservation fee. Call 208-558-7368 to reserve the group facility or Ranch Manager's House.

Activities

During the summer there are regular tours of the Railroad Ranch buildings. Fishing, hiking, horseback riding and mountain biking are other ways to experience the beauty of the area. Dont forget to bring your camera. There are breath-taking wildflower displays in the sage meadows and pastureland which dominate the landscape.

Visitors often see elk, deer and moose, particularly in the morning and evening. The views of the Tetons are spectacular. When winter comes, grab your cross-country skis. You can ski to the warming houseopen on weekendsand look out over the Henrys Fork to watch bald eagles and trumpeter swans.

Henry's Fork

Meandering nine miles through park meadows and forests, the Henrys Fork of the Snake River flows gently year-round, because of warm springs in the area. One third of the Rocky Mountain trumpeter swan population winters here. Trumpeter swans are the largest of North American waterfowl and the worlds heaviest flying bird. The fly fishing on this stream is world famous.

Read More Here:
http://www.stateparks.com/harriman.html

Park City, Utah

2009-07-07T07:08:00.000-07:00

July 3rd and 4th, 2009

After two days on a river, and too many hours on the road, arriving to Park City was a well-earned (relative to our situation, not the world) comfort. Neither my father nor I had ever been to Park City, Utah before but we had both heard and read great things.

Park City is definitely cool, but definitely a bit cut and dried: not quite as beautiful as Jackson Hole or Aspen, and not nearly as diverse and eccentric as Santa Fe or Taos. The population is definitely a cast of characters: bikers, hippies, fishermen, rich bankers, and struggling artists; but there is little diversity of ethnicity and backgrounds.

The city itself is very cute. Snuggled in between mountains, the main street runs along a fairly steep hill lined with the typical Western galleries, funky furniture shops, cowboy clothiers, and a variety of restaurants. As my dad might put it, a more "evolved Americana."

The highlights of our stay in Park City:

1) The Seared Chili Duck with Green Chili Macaroni at Purple Sage. Wow. http://www.purplesageparkcity.com/

2) The 4th of July Parade and Party at the Park. Park City really lights up for the Fourth. A fun parade makes it way down main street towards the Park where local bands, hippy dancers, and BBQ masters set the mood for a great day in the sun to celebrate our country's Independence.

3) Great Live Music and a fun bar scene --- the margaritas at the Spur were up to snuff. http://www.thespurbarandgrill.com/

My dad bet me a few dollars that I would not dance with this woman.

We took tequila shots with the 1800 "girl" to get shirts and a beanie.

4) Our room and the luxuries of the Sky Lodge. http://www.theskylodge.com/

All in all, this post is short because I don't feel "passionate" about Park City. Now, do not get me wrong, its a fun, beautiful, and entertaining city. We definitely enjoyed ourselves and I would probably go back. However, compared to the rest of our trip, Park City just felt a bit... pedestrian.

Camping on the Gunnison

2009-07-05T20:24:00.000-07:00

the campsite and the stove affair

Guest Blog written by Mickey Ashmore Sr (Big Mick)

We arrived at around 4:30 pm. Tired. We had really fished hard. Tonight, we would live on the river: would cook, eat, drink, and sleep as the Gunnison rushed by. To be perfectly straight up, I was never very good at camping. The only thing I did well was purchase the gear. I've always liked the romance of camping, finding the right secluded site, setting up the areas, especially the outdoor kitchen. It just seems that most camping trips ended up with loud children close by, or a hellacious mountain storm that would leave us wet and frightened.

Well, I digress. Let's focus on the campsite at hand. Ben Olson knows the river, he has floated it over 300 times. He suggested a site at the base of a narrow canyon with steep jagged walls looming high overhead. A place only accessible by raft. Yes, just me, Mick
and our gracious guide and river host, Ben, about to set up camp. A place for everything: the tent, the kitchen, the dining area, and the "groover." Rushing rivers rapids providing the background peace. No internet, no blackberry, no television. Just a spot on the river away from it all.

And as Ben prepared dinner I saw it, a portable camping stove like none I had ever seen. A two burner steel and aluminum rectangle box that opened and closed like a briefcase. A patina that only 15 years of use could give it. Yes, I now realize Coleman camp stoves are for the masses.

This portable stove and steel folding stand exhibited simple form and rugged functionality. God it was cool! It is a serious piece of equipment. A Cook Partner made by Partner Steel Company (See www.partnersteel.com). The best in class; the Hasty Bake of camping stoves. Lots of BTU's, heavy duty, light in weight and really beautiful!

Ben prepared dinner: grilled salmon with a fresh "Ben made" mango salsa, steamed broccoli, and pasta with a basil pesto.You knew Ben, so very smooth in his prep, had obviously prepared this meal many times.

Great food by the river calls for great wine. The one luxury I had slipped into my wet/dry bag was a bottle of Chassagne Montrachet 2005 Les Vergers by Domaine Ramonet. Without wine glasses, we all drank from the bottle chilled by the rivers cold. We savored the stony quality and baked apricot and honey mouthfuls.

There we sat, under a tarp with three oars and a tree skillfully rigged by Ben supplying the support. We drank wine, watched the rain, and listened to the river. All the while I kept looking at Partners steel stove thinking about all the salmon cooked by Ben and the people he served. I could not help but wonder if they liked the stove as much as I did.

Fishin' The Gunnison at Black Canyon

2009-07-05T20:00:00.000-07:00

July 2, 2009

Guest Blog written by Mickey Ashmore Sr. (Big Mick)

My goals were very simple for this father son road trip to Seattle and to Little Mickey's independence. First, to realize that it is ok to let him pick our restaurants. (Little Mickey's Input: I am better at picking restaurants at this point. Granted, I have technology on my side). Second, hopefully, have my son experience the joy of fly fishing. By all appearences and reputation the Black Canyon of the Gunnison River had the ingredients he should embrace. A one mile hike down into a deep river canyon that relatively few people do each year. An exciting, challenging river with class four rapids. And of course, big brown trout amidst a stone fly hatch.

Our guide, Ben Olson of Black Canyon Anglers, a former semi-pro skateboarder, was a great new friend for Mick. Full of energy, enthusiasm, entertaining small town stories, and nonstop entymology, it was very apparent that Ben had excellent guiding instincts. Ben prepared the raft, making sure everything was strapped down properly and secure. He rigged our fishing rods and placed Mickey in the bow because he was the least experienced fisherman. With me safely and still dry seated at the stern, Ben launched the raft into the gorgeous Gunnison river.

Within minutes, Little Mick was casting the stonefly how and where Ben told him. As I watched, I was given the prideful pleasure of seeing "my son the fisherman". Then, as River Karma would have it on Mick's tenth cast or so a large brown trout flashed, rose, and sipped the stonefly into his mouth, quickly turned. Instinctively, Mick set the hook with a quick tug to the right and the fight to land him began. Ben gave instructions, "Hold the rod tip high, keep the tension, get him on the reel," and Mick followed instructions and landed a twenty inch brown trout.

Mick Jr. now new the beauty, the sport, and the intelligence of fly fishing for trout on western rivers. The picture says it all, "My son the shortstop, the quarterback, the point guard was really becoming my son the fly fisherman."

A view down the canyon from the boat.

The night before: pickin flies and gearing up. Ben advised us that large stone flies were still hatching and the best bet for a good day of fishing.

Our boat: loaded up, strapped down, and ready for the rapids with Ben at the helm.

Lil' Mick landing his 20 inch brown trout.

Another view down the canyon.

Leaning House of West Texas

2009-07-05T16:57:00.000-07:00

This dilapidated house along the highway caught my eye. I shot it from both sides. I really enjoy the contrast between land, sky, and structure.

Random Road Trip Photos

2009-07-05T16:42:00.001-07:00

Hat and Texas Flag in the Weinzapfel General Store in Windthorst, Texas.

They sell fireworks in the grocery store in Taos. Amazing. I bought plenty.

Texans love cattle, beef, and leather boots. Windthorst, Texas.

Does anyone get this sign?

"Listen or your tongue will make you deaf?"

Taos is full of "interesting people." This woman was reading a collection of gossip magazines around 11 pm in the supermarket. Sitting in a lawn chair under a beach umbrella, she looked up at me smiling and said, "Its just like the beach!"

Sure.

Candy at Allsup's Convenience Store.

A Quick Trip To Lagos

2009-07-05T16:39:00.000-07:00

Written on June 21, 2009:

I just got back from infamous Nigeria. After repeated warnings that I should not go (from my mother, the US Government Travel website, everyone in Ghana, and an Italian friend in Accra)… I am not going to lie: I was a bit worried. Would I even make it in the first few hours from the Lagos Airport to my friend’s home in Ikoyi? Multiple people had warned me that the armed robbery was the norm, not the exception. Lagos is very dangerous. People travel in security details and have armed guards. I was told.

“Are you sure you want to fly on Thursday night?” Dinesh, my flight booking agent, asked, placing emphasis on the word “night.”

“Yeah, why not? I have school during the day so I need to leave after 3 pm.” I replied casually.

“We do not recommend traveling at night to Lagos. Many airlines have even stopped nighttime service because foreigners traveling on the road connecting the airport to the city is a major point of armed robbery.” He continued.

Oh Shit. What had I gotten myself into. I imagined a lawless world of streets lined with shady individuals, motorcycle gangs with AK-47s slung over shoulder, and cars burning along the road.
A post apocalyptic world cast in grey and black with flickers of orange from flames and gunfire - think Sin City.

“Let me get back to you,” I told Dinesh as I whipped out my Blackberry and e-mailed Tosin, my Nigerian friend from University who would be hosting me.

His reply: “Don’t worry about it. It isn’t that dangerous. Look, Nigeria is the real Africa - not buttered up for tourism. You will be fine. I promise.” Relieved? A little bit. I kept my night flight. Foolhardy or not, I figured I should get the full experience… armed robbery and all. I hoped Tosin had armored vehicles.

He was right. While definitely more dangerous than your average city, I never felt at risk. I unnecessarily braced myself for the ride from airport to Tosin’s home. He picked me up in a new silver Mercedes Benz (Great, so inconspicuous). We made it home without a hitch… or even a hint of trouble.

Deep down. I figured I would be okay; otherwise, I would not have gone. Safety and danger in foreign countries is often exaggerated. People want to make their stories more enticing, and governments and travel agencies must err on the side of caution.

That said, Nigeria certainly had its differences from Ghana. One of the most apparent: corruption. In terms of bribery, Ghana - 0; Nigeria - 7. In only three days in Nigeria, we were asked for bribes on multiple occasions. Beginning with parking at the airport to numerous roadside checks by police carrying assault rifles to the doormen at every club we visited during a whirlwind tour of Lagos’ nightlife (Thanks to Toby!). However, I found these bribes more humorous and pathetic than intimidating. Calling it a bribe is probably an overstatement, rather it was begging. Rather than putting a gun in my face or creating a fine to request, military officers timidly asked for money with a smile on their face like a homeless man asking for beer change. Even as a foreigner, I was far from convinced.

Other than the bribery, I found Lagos to be very pleasant. Granted, I was staying with a good friend who is fairly well-to-do, so I saw Lagos' finest. The food was splendid, women beautiful, nightlife abundant, and the heat: oppressing.

July 2: Taos to Black Canyon

2009-07-05T06:41:00.000-07:00

July 2, On The Road Again...

From Taos, we headed West along the northern border of New Mexico to Chama.

One very interesting aspect of travel immediately outside of Taos is the "Earthship Biotecture Community." Although we did not opt for the tour, it looks like an interesting place --- straight out of a movie set. Several miles deep and along the highway out of Taos, the landscape is dotted with eco-friendly homes that are built into the ground and out of recycled materials. Very sustainable.

www.Earthship.org. Earthship is a planned community of completely sustainable homes, built entirely from recycled materials, as designed by Michael Reynolds. The idea has caught on and EarthShips are built all over the world, but Taos has the largest community of the unique homes.
--------------

We were anticipating an amazing New Mexican meal in Chama at Viva Vera’s Mexican Kitchen. My father and mother had been there several times on previous road trips and I had even been there once as a kid. Even though he had an upset stomach, and spicy Mexican food was far from the doctor’s orders, my dad had been raving about the food the whole ride and we couldn’t wait. Much to our disappointment; however, Vera’s had closed. We later found out that Vera had passed away and her family could not keep the restaurant afloat without her. She was well-known for her cooking not only by my parents, but across the region. Certainly a loss for New Mexican cuisine.

All was not lost for us however. In typical Two Mickey’s fashion, we scoured Chama for another good taste of New Mexican cuisine. Several locals directed us to Foster’s Hotel Restaurant. For those of you who don’t know, New Mexican cuisine is not typical Mexican food - different even from neighboring Tex-Mex. So, we had to get some. While Tex-Mex and New Mexican share many similarities, the flavors, structure of the food, and names of dishes can differ. Even something as simple as the construction of an enchilada: flattened in New (known as Santa Fe Style), rolled in Tejas. That said, the defining characteristic of New Mexican cuisine, in my opinion, is the use of Green Chilies. Green Chili sauce is made from roasted whole green chilies, while red chili sauce typically uses dried chilies. (A nice article about New Mexican Cuisine:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/New_Mexican_cuisine). At Foster’s, we enjoyed a red chili enchilada, chips & salsa, and a green chili smothered chili relleno. It was damn good.

Foster’s was also a really cool spot - open since the late 1800s, Foster’s served as a hotel, bar and restaurant to feed, shelter and entertain travelers and workers coming into Chama’s rail station along the Denver and Rio Grande Western Railroad. Today, Foster’s also houses tourists that come to experience the Cumbres and Toltec Railroad (apparently, I was one of these tourists as a kid). And I loved the thrill of a classic train journey through the mountains by way of steam locomotive engine. Touristy, but cool.

- Foster’s Hotel, Restaurant and Saloon. 393 S. Terrace Ave. Chama, NM 87520. (575) 756-2296

- Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad. http://www.cumbrestoltec.com/ From the website, “Hidden away in a little-known corner of the southern Rocky Mountains is a precious historic artifact of the American West. Built in 1880 and little changed since, the Cumbres & Toltec Scenic Railroad is the most spectacular example of steam era mountain railroading in North America.”

From Chama, we headed North crossing into “Colorful Colorado.” Again, like from Dallas to Taos, we avoided the largest highway and took a much less direct route to Montrose. Our destination was the lodge of Black Canyon Anglers where we were to be fishing and camping in the Black Canyon Gorge on the Gunnison River.

Along the way, we stopped at Corkins Lodge. Why? It was a favorite family vacation destination when I was a kid. Families can rent individual cabins on the grounds, enjoy world-class fishing along the Brazos river (2.5 private miles of river for lodge guests), as well as the amazing mountain views. This place is special, and brought back great memories. http://www.corkinslodge.com/

The drive took about 7 hours, we saw many interesting trains along the way, and we reached the Lodge around 7:15 pm, just in time for dinner and a couple hours of relaxation before bed.

Taos

2009-07-04T08:52:00.000-07:00

Our first night of the road trip was spent in Taos, where we used to take many family vacations.

We stayed at the beautifully historic Taos Inn. The hotel is housed in an old adobe building with a wooden beam interior that supports the structure. I checked into room 114 and dropped my bottle of water onto the floor. It rolled left. Over time, the Taos Inn has developed a lean, which only serves to add to the charm and character of the place.

The bar at the Taos Inn, the Adobe Bar, is fantastic. With live music nightly and killer margaritas, not to mention a great ambience on the patio or inside. The Adobe Bar is truly “the social scene” of Taos. My Dad and I shared two margaritas: El Muchote and El Gran Reserva. El Muchote was silver tequilla, hand-squeezed lime juice and organic agave nectar. The nectar gives it a unique, smokey sweet flavor (almost a maple syrup taste). El Gran Reserva used the finest aged tequilla as well as fresh squeezed lime. The color of the drink was a dark, burnt gold which was aided by the use of Grand Marnier. Also an excellent choice - maybe two of the best margaritas I have ever had.

We then dined at the hotel’s well known restaurant, Doc Marten’s, also a Taos institution. They are known for the Chili Relleno. While the appearance is second-to-none, the taste did not match. Don’t get me wrong, the flavor was good - better than average, but not the best. However, the crispy quail and lamb chops were damn good.

The Historic Taos Inn is highly recommended for a stay inside of Taos.

A Few More Photos

2009-07-04T08:24:00.000-07:00

Allsup's Famous Beef & Bean Burrito. Allsup's is the best convenience store across the Southwest. And by best, I mean most reminiscent of the past. Americana convenience store. See Previous Post.

The cashier at Childress Bakery. Very cute.

I purchased this hat at the Weinzafpel General Store in Windthorst, TX. It was a great buy... Yeehaw.

Road Trip, Part 1: Texas to NM

2009-07-01T09:47:00.000-07:00

Road Trippin’ Texas

Today, June 30th, 2009, my father and I departed from our home in Dallas, Texas bound for Seattle (where I begin work for Microsoft on July 13th). We are making the 2000+ mile trip by car. We are breaking it up over a week stopping in several destinations to fish, camp, hike, and relax. Not to mention, we will be eating and drinking well along the way.

The first leg of the trip took us West out of Dallas then North towards Amarillo and into Northern New Mexico

to Taos. Instead of following the typical highway route from Dallas to Wichita Falls along 287 and then to Amarillo, we decided to take smaller highways to avoid the monotony of highway driving and enjoy the small town culture of Texas. Along the way, we photographed dilapidated barns, ate BBQ, listened to country radio, and laughed a lot. Below are some of the highlights:

You Can’t Go Wrong With Texas-Made Donuts

As a kid, donuts were a staple of my diet - every Sunday morning, my mom took me to Southern Maid Donuts on Ferguson Road. There, I always ordered a dozen donuts, only able to finish a few. Pigs in a blanket, blueberry cake, buttermilk, donut holes… mmmm. To commemorate my departure from Texas, our first stop for coffee and breakfast was a small donut shop in ???, Texas.

I am convinced Texas has the best donuts around. We don’t do Dunkin here, we do mostly small independently owned shops (mostly by Asians, sorry to stereotype). Despite that each donut store might have unique ownership, the recipe is virtually identical. The same offerings, the same prices, the same setup, and even the same smell - much like the many different but similar dry cleaners or nail salons scattered about.

Rather than a dozen, we just ordered a few.

My all-time favorite donut: a buttermilk. Round with a whole, but crispier, thicker and notched like the crown of a king - one can’t go wrong with a plain buttermilk donut. Don’t forget pigs in a blanket (small sausages wrapped in fluffy dough then baked), donut holes, and the bear claw. Although this time we ordered coffee, Schepp’s chocolate milk in a paper carton is even better to accompany donuts. Make sure to bring the sugar rush full circle.

Small Town BBQ

For lunch, we found ourselves seated at Love’s Bar B Que and Steakhouse in Chillicothe. If you have never been to Chillicothe, well then, you have not missed much… except some damn good BBQ. Neither my dad nor I had heard of it or been there either, but judging by the look of Love’s corrugated metal structure, enticing signage, and optimal location in a small Texas town, we shrugged our shoulders and smiled - how bad could there brisket plate be?

We were not disappointed. We shared a three meat combo late -- the ribs and beef brisket stole the show, and the pulled pork was pretty damn good too. The brisket was moist, tender and perfectly seasoned like a good brisket should be. The ribs were dry rubbed and smoked to perfection. However, the best dish was their famous appetizer: the Texas Roll-Up. Beef brisket, jalapenos, onions, and spices rolled up in a thin dough and deep fried. Think Texas BBQ meets Chinese Egg Roll. Love’s BBQ makes its own barbecue sauce and a selection of spicy sauces to add extra flavor. If you ever found yourself between Wichita Falls and Amarillo, save some space and eat at Love’s.

Love’s Bar B Que & Steakhouse. HWY 287, Chillicothe, TX. 940.852.5400

After driving for a couple more hours, a coffee infusion was needed. We got exactly what we were looking for and more at the Childress Bakery in Childress, Texas. Fresh coffee and a damn good buttermilk stick (similar to the donut previous mentioned, but shaped more like a hot dog bun). The place was slammed and appeared to serve great sandwiches and potato soup as well. The funky décor also adds to the experience.

Childress Bakery, 1001 Ave F NW. Childress, TX 79201. 940.937.8711

We drover for a bit more until the next need struck: gas. After passing by the local filling stations of so many Texas towns, I couldn’t allow us to stop at the typical Exxon Mobil or Chevron. Rather, we found an Allsup’s Convenience Store and Gas Station (provided by Phillips 66) in Vega, Texas. Allsup’s is a classic service station with its own store branded goods and the best gas station snack around: The Famous Fried Beef & Bean Burrito. Their burrito is damn good, but also a surefire recipe for gas, indigestion and clogged arteries.

Interesting fact: Allsup’s branded convenience stores were born in Roswell, New Mexico. The founders were Lonnie and Barbara Allsup in 1956, at the time known as “Lonnie’s Drive In Grocery.” Allsup’s is a pioneer of selling cooked foods in convenience stores. www.Allsups.com. Locations Everywhere.

Finally, at 2 pm, after seven hours of driving, we crossed into New Mexico. The extra hour of driving - the relishing of the present at the expense of the future was well worth it. Why rush to get to a destination if that means losing all enjoying of the present? We took our time meandering through Texas. We stopped to take photos, sample foods, enjoy the peculiarities of a convenience store, and read about the German influence on Windthorst.

Gas stop.

Buttermilks on the right, bear claws on the left.

The Donut Shop. Can't go wrong with Texas Donuts.

The three meat combo plate at Love's Bar B Que - pulled pork, pork ribs, and brisket plus fried okra... mmmm delicious.

A real cowboy eating a Texas BBQ lunch, barbecue beef brisket sandwich, in Chilliclothe at Love's BBQ.

Try the buttermilk sticks at the Childress Bakery.

Allsup's Convenience Store.

Farewell Ghana

2009-06-27T02:07:00.000-07:00

It has been an amazing five weeks here. My departure from this country is bittersweet.

The bitter: leaving a family I have grown exceptionally close to, the sad looks on my students' faces, the lifestyle, and a sense of purpose... just to name a few.

The sweet: the thought of unconditionally warm showers, feeling clean 99% of the time, my mom and dad, and starting my next journey in life.

I want to touch on one aspect of my time here that was so great: a lifestyle of purpose and peace. I worked, I use that term loosely, everyday from 8 am until 3 pm. Aside from those few hours at school, which were completely rewarding and far from a burden, I had no responsibility here for anyone or anything, except my own well-being. Not only did I have no responsibility, but I had absolutely no external pressure or accountability. Sure, I had to be at school, but noone was monitoring my progress, judging my abilities, or expecting anything from me. The only pressure I put on myself was internal and for my own good. All in all, my life was as stress-free as it comes.

This mental departure from my life in the US coupled with the relaxed Ghanaian pace of life resulted in a relaxation and sense of peace I have not felt before. However, the most beautiful aspect was that not only was I relaxed and rested (which can also be easily found at a beach resort), but I also had a strong sense of purpose. Not only was I feeling good, but I was doing good. I was accomplishing something with my time, and this served to further my already peaceful state of mind.

To conclude, I would highly recommend this experience to anyone with initiative, a sense of adventure, and free time. Feel free to contact me for more information. If your trip is anything like mine, I can assure you that you will not mind trading a few physical comforts for complete mental peace and purpose.

Best,

Mickey

2009-06-22T07:03:00.000-07:00

Mr. Kukubor

Other Aliases: Master, Poppa Kuks, Father
Age: 50s or very early 60s… it is hard to tell with Africans. They age so well.
Education: University Educated as an Accountant
Current Employment: Headmaster of the Kukubor Preparatory School (20+ years)
Claims to Fame: Too many to recount them all… he once ran the entire private school system of Accra. Other highlights include being an all star athlete, running Ghana’s best school at one point, and being feared by all (the “Lion” of the neighborhood)
Favorite Food: A big ball of Akple with fresh tilapia in light tomato soup
Likes: Glory & Power, Apoteshie (Local Whiskey with Herbs to Promote Male Potency), Eating until he can’t breath, commanding his school, the current government administration, life, and all of his family (which he considers almost everyone he has ever met), cat meat (although he may be joking)
Dislikes: Rice (He claims, “It does not fill me up well!”), Ashanti People (his rival tribe from Ghana), the previous Ghanaian presidential administration, Nigerians, Men who are not gentlemen
Most Common Sayings: “I am eating my big ball. I ate my big ball and now it is in my stomach. I am so full I cannot breath.” and “We (his school children and family) will crush our enemies with health and success.”

Mr. Kukubor not only loves life, but he loves teaching others how to live life as well. And in my opinion, he does a damn good job of it - even though at times it seems humurous. A very patriarchal man, Mr. Kukubor overlooks his school, family, and neighborhood like the Godfather watches over his mob family: both with loving hugs and a swift backhand. And just like the Godfather, if deemed you worthy, Mr. Kukubor will quickly consider you part of the family and introduce you as sister, son, nephew, or niece despite, as in my case, lack of a true biological connection.

Mr. Kukubor also loves the idea of being on top: the man, the head honcho, the don, the king; however, you want to call it. Despite its current state of decay, he claims, and I believe him, that his school was once the best and he is determined to return it to his former glory… now only if he could get the funds to do so.

After getting more comfortable around us, he has really opened up -- sharing stories of his days as a sports stud, ladies’ man, passionate lover, and feared boxer and politico. He adores his wife and she certainly serves him well. Whether its due to his immobility from a disease in his foot, or simply his status, people bow to Mr. Kukubor and fulfill all of his demands readily.

Madame Kukubor

Aliases: Momma Kuk, Madame, Glady (In a high pitched voice by Mr. Kukubor)
Age: 44
Education: Catering (I believe she was trained at a technical school)
Current Employment: Domestic Housewife, Administrator of KUK Prep, Overseer of the snack bar, Teacher of domestic skills
Claims to Fame: Damn good cooking, the world’s second sweetest person (after my mother), ability to manage Mr. Kukubor’s constant demands
Best Dish: Rice with groundnut soup and fresh fish (see previous post for recipe)
Favorite Food: Whatever makes Joshua and I happy… which is anything but Akple and Fufu
Likes: Her one and only son, Cornelius; Making everyone happy, seeing Josh and I eat all of our food and ask for more, downtime, chit chat with the traveling vendors, watching after her flock (however you want to define that)
Dislikes: Dealing with her husband (I would assume), Letting Cornelius out of her sight, overly emotional children
Common Sayings: In a high pitched, drawn out voice, “Oooohhhhh thatssss sooo niiiccceee.”

There is no better way to describe Madame Kukubor than benevolent mother full of unconditional love and the desire to make her children (biological or not) happy, comfortable, and well nourished. A skillful multitasker, she wears many hats: cook, administrator, accountant, buyer, mother, and teacher.

Up at dawn and often the last to bed, I am yet to see her rest besides a couple quick naps during the day. Occasionally, I will bring her home some imported chocolate, fresh fruit, or nice veggies to cook --- to which she always exclaims, “Oooohhh thaaattt iss sooo niiiccce.” Her only son is Cornelius, and he is definitely a momma’s boy.

Cornelius Kukubor

Aliases: Corny
Age: 12
Education: Upper Level Primary at the Kukubor Prep School
Claims to Fame: Ability to juggle a soccer ball, ability to put up with his dad, good student, smile
Likes: Watching movies on his DVD player, the new e-mail address that Josh created for him, watching soccer matches with Josh, Poppa Kuks and I on the porch
Dislikes: Being asked if he likes girls

Cornelius is as innocent and uncorrupted as they come. Despite having a DVD player and being able to work a cell phone, his exposure to the world is minimal. Cornelius is a great kid with a deep respect for his parents - doing whatever they wish, whenever they ask. After initially being shy, he has opened up to Joshua and I. We took him for his first visit to the modern Accra shopping mall and Cinema. He was amazed not only with the size of the movie screen, comfy chairs, and bright colors, but also humorously by the automatic flush on the urinals in the men’s restroom.

Published on Friday, June 19

2009-06-20T23:27:00.000-07:00

As you may have been able to tell from the comments on my blog, my letter to the editor regarding the word "Obruni" was published on Friday (Article can be found on the following post). It was carried by the "Daily Graphic" which is Ghana's largest and most well read newspaper. It circulates the entire country; therefore, quite a few people saw my article.

Furthermore, I have received a ton of response, mostly in the form of emails. While there have been a few critics, the majority have either praised or apologized (which I find unecessary... I was not seeking apologies) or have simply expressed thanks in presenting a new perspective on the word. One major theme running across many responses was that most people who use the word "Obruni" are not educated and/or literate; therefore, unfortunately they will not read the article. However, I was also told my article was discussed on the local radio so maybe they heard about it.

All in all, I am very positive about the impact of my letter. Whether or not everyone agrees with my sentiments, or feels I was justified in writing, the response I received from readers was telling. The topic definitely stirred the pot, got people thinking, and drew reaction - is that not what every opinion writer wants?

Finally, I am not surprised by the friendliness and hospitality that permeates each email. Most Ghanaian writers wished me well and hoped I had a fabulous stay. As I said in the article, and I hope was clear, I love the Ghanaian people, culture, and way of life. Its quite refreshing, albeit sometimes frustrating.

Below I have posted a few of the emails I received:

I just read your article in the daily’s entitled “oburoni” I just might understand how you feel when people call you by that name. Many a times I have traveled to U.K precisely in Leeds when some white guys shouted on top of their voices “Negro”, I felt so bad and ashamed that I wanted to hide then but there was no place. Just as you said about children doing so and is acceptable, I particular think that in this modern times that people travel all over the world, it just does not make sense when people of other races are called by funny names which they probably heard from their grandparents who were not civilized yet. Nobody choses their skin colour or race. I don’t know what exactly to say, but I felt like I should share your experiences of Ghanaian calling you name. What you suggested that Ghanaians should call you unfortunately will not be known to the people who call you as such because they don’t read the newspapers to get to these information. I hope you find a way to deal with this persisting problem.

One writer from Kumasi (a large city in Central Ghana) writes:

Hi Mike, I’ve just finished reading your article in my office in Kumasi. You are indeed right, judging from your perspective; however the latter part of the message is what most, if not all, Ghanaians (young and old) mean whenever the see a white man and call out that word (for your sake I won’t use it).To be honest with you, the word is not used for a white man only; any ‘fair colored’ person (even a Ghanaian) is referred to as ……. in the Akan dialect. One of my Uncles is called ‘Kofi Broni’. He is Kofi, because he was born on Friday and Broni, for being fair. Again, if someone wants to speak to a lady who is fair colored the one could easily say ….please sister broni… so so and so, (though informal) and the lady would not get hurt. It is probably the Ghanaian way of saying ‘friend’, ‘you’, ‘brother’ and the like, which is part of our way of expressing the hospitable culture.

In the organization where I work, several whites (Americans, Canadians, etc) come for internship and other programs. Presently there two white ladies and a guy; the guy and a lady come from America while the other lady is a British. We don’t usually use the word for them but they know that we call whites by that name.

For me, as I hope for several other Ghanaians your feeling could be a new thing and if it is so we would have to find a way to educate ourselves to put a stop to the use of the word for our fellow white people. Finally, I would want to say for now that if anyone uses the word it is for the purpose of expressing our usual Ghanaian hospitality.

From a fellow white man:

Mickey,

I read your article today in the Daily Graphic. I have been working in Ghana for more than two years and share exactly your thoughts. I am from Houston working with an investment group from Dallas. We are building a power plant in the far western region.

Thanks so much for voicing your thoughts openly and in the paper....

Another Ghanaian:

I just read you article in our national news paper the daily graphic of friday,19th june 2009 on page 9 unders Column LETTERS with keen interest and would like to commend you very much for educating some of us the miss use of the word OBURONI. well i remember beating up some children and shouting out to some Uneducated adult who even make the children to call a white person oburoni. I asked them to ask their relatives in America and else where that the white man or woman there kept calling them black man, blackman or woman etc. tis is very bad. I hope your article will find it way in other news papers in ghana. for more education on the miss used of word. educate people especially the Uneducated in the societies.. wish u da best am joseph.bye

A history lesson:
Dear Mickey,

I saw your letter in today's Graphic and I thought "Oh! Why are they givign
this white man a hard time?" I'm sorry that we, as Ghanaians have been rude or have seemed to be rude to a visitor. Perhaps you know that the word 'visitor" is used to describe a stranger, or foreigner in the Akan languages, which also produces 'Oburoni'.

But I wanted to make a short correction. Oburoni does not mean white man or woman, it means "person from beyond (or over?) the horizon". When Eurpeans first started coming to this part of Africa, their ships appeared from beyond the horizon. The verb 'buro' means to exceed, or to overflow. The word or the suffix 'ni' can be attached to a verb or a place, so that a Nigerian is referred to as Alata-ni, or an Ashanti as asanteni, etc etc.I am a very tall African woman. When I was much younger I spent a year in Kumasi studying for a Masters.

I was actually born and brought up there, but my family had left Kumasi when I was a child. Well, in the market n Kumasi, I was always called, 'Hey, oburoni'...this was done very seriously, not as a joke, because, well, obviously, I was not Ashanti, as I was so tall, so (to everyone) I must have come from beyond the horizon (only from as far as the Central region, of course).We are very poor in Ghana. People are generally happy, especially when given the chance to lambast one or the other political party, but we are very poor. During the period when we were colonized, or before, when the Europeans were just trading or mining, it was known that Europeans were always more affluent, better read, and with larger pockets. It is rude for children or people younger than you, to call after you like that, but we are losing the old ways, and are not as polite as we used to be. But children are generally intrigued by paler faces when they have never seen at close quarters skin, or hair like that (as I found out in Italy, when people would ask to touch my hair) and street traders probably call after you when they see you because you as a (European) tourist would be more likely to buy anything from them, than I would be.If people called you Oburoni Pete (rhymes with a bit with letter) now that would be different! But that's another story..........!!!

A wish you a belated Akwaaba, and I hope you enjoy the rest of your trip.

Adwoa

Don't Call Me Obruni!

2009-06-17T10:02:00.000-07:00

[Sept. 1, 2010] While I do not want to alter the original text below of my article, because I want it to be preserved as it was. I do want to respond to all the comments below. First and foremost, I have never experienced in my life a warmer, more hospitable and loving culture as I did in Ghana. Never during my two months there did I feel truly threatened. Completely opposite really. I was treated like family - everywhere I went. I think back on my time in Ghana extremely, extremely fondly with not a bad word to say about the experience... except the abundance of dried tilapia, but that's for another blog post.

Furthermore, I think that my writing below can be interpretted in multiple ways. I was merely trying to point out on perspective of how the word "Obruni" can be perceived by foreigners. Furthermore, as I stated, I think this perception by foreigners is a shame because it belies the true nature of the Ghanaian people: warm, embraceful, hospitable, fun loving. As I also stated, it also seems a bit archaic as well... and I found it particularly disenchanting when groups of small children surrounded me and called me Obruni.

To conclude, I hope you still read the article below. But please don't take it as my final, concluding opinion on Ghana. I loved Ghana - almost every minute of it (except the nights where the power and water weren't working )...and I wouldn't trade my time there for anything. Seriously. I still keep in touch with a lot of people from Ghana and hope to return some day.

Now... go ahead and read below. Please leave a comment at this has become a lively post.

Cheers,
Mickey
Mickeyashmore@live.com (e-mail me too!)

The word "Obruni" in the local language means White Man. It is commonly used across Ghana to refer to me, and every other white person. It is not intended to be mean or disrespectful; rather, in a lot of cases it is a friendly way to say hi. However, I still sometimes find it unecessary and rude. Furthermore, it makes me (and many other white folks) uncomfortable (especially at first... of course, I got used to it) and makes the Ghanaians seem ignorant (again, only at first). Overall, I feel it misrepresents their very warm culture and belies Ghanaian's friendly nature and embracefulness. The photo to the left shows my friend Josh, the Obruni, amongst locals on the bus.

I wrote the following and submitted it to Ghana's daily newspaper, The Daily Graphic. It was printed and received a lot of response. Similar to the comments below: good and bad.

Dear Citizens of Ghana,

As a white volunteer from the United States, I would like to express my displeasure with the frequent and ill-mannered use of the word, Obruni. I believe the common use of Obruni misrepresents the warm and educated Ghanaian culture because it unintentionally makes foreigners uncomfortable and seems ignorant.

In my time as a volunteer teacher at a small school in Accra, not a day has passed in which I have not been called Obruni. Simply walking 100 meters from the school where I teach in Kwasheiman to the soda vendor on the street corner, I am catcalled “Obruni” multiple times for mostly no apparent reason. Cab drivers, Tigo vendors, tro-tro attendants, young children, and random loiterers call out, “Obruni! Obruni!” Why? Is there really a need to remind me that I am white? Am I really such a marvel or anomaly?

I understand that a child may call me Obruni. Children often lack the sensitivity , manners, and expressive abilities of mature adults. Children also copy the practices of older people around them. However, adults have no excuse. When an adult hollers “Obruni” and then speaks at me in local tongue, I become uncomfortable, frustrated, and, at times, angry. I think many white people who visit and live in Ghana feel similarly.

Furthermore, calling someone Obruni comes off as ignorant. Does the user of this term not have better words to express himself? Is pointing out the passing white man such a big deal? It seems to me that there are plenty of white men (as well as Asian, Middle Eastern, etc.) all over Ghana. Is there really a need to point out differences in skin color anyway? My white skin or your black skin is not what defines us.

If I did not know that Ghanaians are exceedingly nice people, I may think the use of the word, Obruni, is intended to make fun of or incense me. In some cases, it even seems hostile. Going for a jog through my neighborhood is much less enjoyable when everyone feels the need to call me out as Obruni. Walking at night on Oxford Street in Osu becomes unnerving when vendors, beggars, and street lingerers yell: OBRUNI!

Let us now consider the reverse. If a black man from Ghana, who was clearly a foreigner, came to the United States, I would never scream out, “Hey Black Man! Hey Black Man!” and then continue to speak at him quickly and loudly in my native language. Not only is that culturally insensitive and rude, but ignorant as if he was a zoo exhibit or phenomenon that I needed to point out to everyone around me.

I do understand that street vendors use Obruni as a marketing tactic to get my attention. Still, it disturbs me. I can think of a number of better alternatives. Call me Friend, Brother, Man, or Guy. Just not Obruni. I guarantee vendors will receive a much more positive response. In Mexico, vendors say “Amigo.” In China, they said “You!” In Morocco, I was “Friend!” and in Costa Rica they say “Brother!” While I may not have an interest in their wares, at least I am not offended by their calls.

Do not get me wrong, I do not believe that Ghanaians are typically rude, hostile, or ignorant. Matter of fact, I have never visited a country where the people were as hospitable, inquisitive, and friendly as they are in Ghana; much more so than the people I have met in China, India, South America, and Europe. At times, I feel safer here than I do in my hometown of Dallas, Texas. However, needless use of the word Obruni belies the true Ghanaian culture. Use of this term is a disservice to Ghana and should be stopped for everyone’s sake.

Sincerely,

Michael Ashmore
www.MickeyAshmore.com

Photos from Ghana

2009-06-17T09:23:00.000-07:00

Flirting: Two of my JHS Students, Theresah and Prince, are having fun during class... aka flirting. Although my students are very conservative (boyfriends and girlfriends, no way!), they still flirt and have fun with each other. Today, I taught them the old song, "Prince and Theresah sitting in a tree. K-I-S-S-I-N-G. First comes love..." The song was a hit.

Vendors Out Front. These vendors are located directly in front of the Kukubor compound where we teach school and live. Our school is located on a main motorway that circles around Greater Accra.This motorway serves as a major commerce zone; therefore, stalls such as these line the motorway for miles selling everything from office furniture to auto parts to cleaning equipment to construction materials. Mr. Kukubor charges them monthly rent but claims they have not been paying lately.

Quiz Time. My JHS students are taking a math quiz. We have been studying factorization and polynomials. After almost two weeks of drilling, I think they finally got it!

The School Yard: The unfinished cinderblock structure is where upper level classes take place . Although bare, it provides shelter in which to conduct class away from the heat of the sun and free of the rainy season weather. Our headmaster has been saving money to finish the rooms, but he is struggling. Anyone want to donate? The yard, covered by a large mango tree, serves as playground, cafeteria, and assembly space.

Classroom Interior: This is where the second level of primary school is taught. The children are about 10 years old and, although cute, very frustrating to teach. The black board is cracked and full of holes, imagine the surface of the moon, making writing very difficult.

Bag My Water. The cheapest method of selling clean drinking water is by sealing it in plastic bags. A small bag, about 12-16 oz, sells for roughly 4 US cents. I prefer bottled water as the bagged water is not always "safe" for foreigners.

Theresah, one of my JHS students, shows off her Shito (pepper sauce) that she made with Mrs. Kukubor looking on proudly from behind. As an older female student, Theresah is expected to help cook and feed the students learning the ways of a domestic housewife. Shito is my favorite Ghanaian sauce made from finely ground shrimp paste, ginger, garlic, onion and hot chilies plus a touch of oil and salt. The taste reminds me of many pepper sauces found in east Asia - hot, gritty and slightly fishy... sounds gross but oh soo good!

The look says it all: Bart Simpson of Ghana. Don't let his cute smile fool you, he is a trouble maker, but cute as hell.

Smoked Tilapia is the main protein source for Ghanaians. We eat it with every meal except breakfast and I have grown to really like it. This tilapia comes in every other day from a vendor who lives in the Volta region. She smokes the fish so it can be preserved since cold storage is not common. The flavor is nice.

Can I Offer You Some Vegetables From My Head? Atop the head… the preferred method of carrying everthing and anything by Ghanaians. This woman comes on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday to sell fresh, and very tasty produce, to our family. She offers cabbage, carrots, bell peppers, green beans, and cucumbers. Interestingly, all the vegetables are much smaller than the genetically modified and artificially fertilized offerings in the United States.

Scientific Research, Internet Browsing, God v. Science Debates

2009-06-12T05:14:00.000-07:00

First of all, as I mentioned in an earlier post, I do not think my brief time at KUK Prep School is best used regurgitating bland material from one poorly written text book. They can read about the “diversity of matter” on their own time: liquids, gases, and solids are not very fun to talk about anyway.

So, rather than teach from the book, I have asked each of my junior high science students to embark upon a scientific-based research project on the topic of his or her choice (although I have proposed a few ideas). I encouraged them to think outside the box - anything they want to research or learn about. In two weeks, they are all expected to present their findings to the class. Collaborative learning at its best.

Above Photo (From Left to Right): Betty, the sassy one; Sherifatu; quiet but smart and fun; Theresah, shy but loves to cook and really respects me; Prince, a walking, talking science book a.k.a, the know it all; and Roland, just a tall, lanky goof ball with a fun loving personality.

In assigning this project, I realize that my students have absolutely no access to research materials. This is something that dawned on me a few days ago when I asked my brightest student, Prince, to research diabetes as a homework assignment. He was only able to gather information by asking his parents and friends. Luckily, his father studied biology and was able to provide him with information.

What about a library? The closest, and I believe only, public library is in central Accra. And since our school is on the outskirts of the city, the library would be 45 minutes away by Taxi, and a much more time-intensive trip by Tro-Tro, which is a ten passenger van packed with at least fifteen people. Tro-Tros are privately owned, mildly regulated and they run specific routes all day long filling in for the lack of public transportation. Tro-Tros are very cheap (around .50 cents per ride), very uncomfortable, and far from efficient. However, given its price point, it is the chosen method of travel for most locals.

Any way, back onto my topic, the lack of resources that my students can access troubles me. Personally, as a middle school student, I took St. John’s Elementary School library completely for granted. If I had only known how lucky I was to have thousands of books at my finger tips, even though that meant painfully boring library classes instructing us in the use of card catalogs and the Dewey decimal system from the elderly Mrs. Johnson.

However, I would not let the lack of apparent resources stop my ambitions for a research project. Why should it? Internet cafes are plentiful enough, despite connection speeds that remind me of a 56k dial-up using AOL 3.0. However, none of my students had used the internet before; another skill that I will teach them. So, this afternoon we will begin our projects by starting at the internet café, learning to research, and gathering initial information. This research project will hopefully prove to be a dynamic learning experience in which they learn quite a few things:

1. How to use the internet properly
2. How to conduct research on the internet, including the best websites and validation + citing of sources
3. How to compile research on the computer
4. Creating a presentation to be printed and distributed to each student
5. New science topics
6. The value of independent research and information

Yes, this is definitely a lofty endeavor, but my students are excited. Obviously, internet time and printing costs money and my students do not have the funds to pay themselves. So, I have agreed to personally fund their expenses, which by Western standards is not so much, as long as they use the time and resources productively… no random browsing, no ESPN, no chat, no email. Luckily, they are not internet savvy (yet!) and will not know how to sneakily watch movies, read about soccer, and chat with girlfriends instead of researching their topics.

The next big question of course: what should we research?

This led to an interesting debate. Had anyone heard of evolution? No. The Big Bang Theory? No. Maybe you see can see where this is headed. As I mentioned earlier, Ghana is a very Christian society. All of my students are firm believers that the world was created by God and we are spawned from Adam & Eve. They have never been exposed to alternative viewpoints, theories, or ideas. When I told them I believed differently, they were flabbergasted. Prince immediately asked me, “So you do not think that God is making it rain outside right now?” (It was just starting to drizzle). I responded, “No, I believe the rain is caused by a scientific or chemical reaction. Not by God.” He laughed at me.

Don’t get me wrong. I have no intention of trying to push my views onto these students. I do not think they are incorrect in believing God created the world, nor do I think that is ignorant to believe so. I think there are many ways one can reconcile science and religion. And to do so; However, I do believe it is important to understand all different views, perspectives, and theories. After explaining this to them, they agreed and are very eager to understand and compare my “crazy, scientific ideas” to their own.

While not all of them will be researching hotly debated God v. Science topics, they will all be researching topics that interest them and are not taught in their tattered JHS Integrated Science Text Book. My five students will be focusing on the following five topics:

1. Evolution (Sherifatu)
2. The Big Bang Theory (Theresah)
3. Stars (Roland)
4. Planets (Prince)
5. Sustainability (Betty)

This afternoon, before we begin our research, I will have to give them a quick tutorial in web browsing and using the internet to research. They seem to be just as excited as I am to expand their knowledge, skill sets, and perspective. This is great!!!

I printed the following and gave it to Prince…

ev·o·lu·tion
(plural ev·o·lu·tions)
noun

1. biology theory of development from earlier forms: the theoretical process by which all species develop from earlier forms of
life.

According to this theory, natural variation in the genetic material of a population favors reproduction by some individuals more than others, so that over the generations all members of the population come to possess the favorable traits.

2. biology developmental process: the natural or artificially induced process by which new and different organisms develop as a result of changes in genetic material

3. gradual development: the gradual development of something into a more complex or better form
the evolution of democracy in Western Europe

Daily Life at the Kukobo House

2009-06-11T08:19:00.000-07:00

Fresh Food Delivery. Every morning, from 7 am until 11 am or so, several vendors stop by the Kukobo compound. They arrive early. The Kukobo family has cultivated relationships over the years - the same women supplying the family’s food every day. This morning, for example, Akkos came with yams and onions from her vegetable farm. A second lady, with a baby on her back arrived with fruits and avocado and a third, she comes only weekly, brought oils and eggs. The vendor/customer relationship is very friendly and refreshing. As the Kukobos greet the vendors, laughs, smiles, and probably the day’s gossip and news passes between parties. Sometimes, several vendors arrive at once.

Just like the traveling vendors, most business is conducted informally and in small quantities. Shopping at super markets is mostly done by expats and wealthier Ghanaians.

At Home Services. Even the barber comes to house. I asked him to shave my very overgrown beard clean --- he did so with a razor blade sans shaving cream or water. It hurt a bit, but he managed to not cut me and leave my face extremely smooth and hair free.

In this photo, Cornelius has his hair cut by the barber on the Kukobo family porch.

Ghanaian Food 101

2009-06-11T07:52:00.000-07:00

Banku. Fufu. Akple. Kenkey. Yams. Plantains. And hopefully some rice. These are the main basic starches and carbohydrates that are consumed daily for breakfast, lunch and dinner by locals. Banku and Akple are more or less the same. Made of fermented cassava and maize, the mush is formed into a distinct and pungent smelling ball or mound that is plopped plainly onto a plate While corn and cassava taste great, the fermentation adds a revolting flavor. Unfortunately, this is our homestay father’s favorite starch and he is determined that we learn to like it. Banku and Akple are meant to be eaten with a stew or sauce, which both masks the fermentation flavor and seaps into the Banku or Akple to give it better flavor (used like a sponge + pita bread).

“Eat your ball!” “Use your ball!” “Look, I am eating my big ball!” A dinner at the Kukobo house (our homestay) with banku or akple is entertaining to the least. The size of the ball of banku is determined by the size of the person eating. Naturally, our father gets the largest ball. To eat like a true Ghanaian, one would have to use your hands. Our father tears of portions of his “ball” and sloshes it in the stew sopping up flavors, juices, and a bit of vegetable such as okra (known here as okro stew). Personally, to tolerate the fermented flavor of Banku, I have to tear my ball into very, very small pieces dropping it into my stew to sponge up other spices asnd sauces. After a good 30 seconds of soaking, I remove the portion of banku with my spoon and quickly slurp down the mushy substance - trying my best to avoid prolonged contact with the taste buds on my tongue.

This is our father’s favorite dish. Therefore, it gives him great pleasure as I begrudgingly reduce the size of my ball. “You have too much ball left, Mike!” he notes. If I start to favor my stew with a spoon and no portion of Akple, he quickly notes, “You are not using your ball, Mike!” “Use the big ball.” Then, often, he will demonstrate - licking his fingers clean of sauce and fish while comparing the size and amount of his ball that has disappeared. “Look at my big ball … almost gone, Mike!”

“I cannot breathe, Mike.” he moans. “I have taken too much food.” “My stomach is now a big ball!” he laughs. The things that my home stay father say, and the manner in which he expresses himself, never cease to amuse me.

Of course, our father understands that Banku or Akple is not enjoyed by the typical western tongue. But I try my best to impress him.

Luckily for me, our home stay mother has taken note of our preferences. Our father has also Despite her husband’s dislike of rice, she still makes a small batch to satisfy her guests every evening. Like any good mother, she does not want her “child” to go hungry or unsatisfied.

The Ghanaian Staple: Red Tomato Stew/Sauce with Tilapia

The most common sauce or stew that we eat (almost daily, sometimes twice a day) is a tomato stew with tilapia. The main ingredients are freshly sautéed tomatoes and onions, tomato paste, oil, and smoked pieces of tilapia. This sauce is also the base for Okra Stew and a variety of other sauces. Abigail, a student who also prepares food at our school, taught me the following recipe:

Ingredients:

Several Fresh Tomatoes
One Large Onion
One large smoked tilapia (or fresh if you can find it)
Garlic
Tomato Paste
Oil (Palm Oil seems to be preferred here)
Ground Red Pepper
Chopped Whole Red Chili Peppers (these are very small, add for extra heat)
Onga Seasoning (a prepackaged blend of spices that comes in a sachet)
Maggi Seasoning (a prepackaged blend of spices that comes in a block with wrapper)
Water, equal to the can of tomato paste

Extras: okra, beans, and/or other vegetables

Instructions:

1. Sautee Chopped Onions and Tomatoes with Garlic in large pot on high heat (In Ghana, this typically means in a large iron pot over charcoals or fire)
2. After tomatoes and onions have softened, add a large can of fresh tomato paste plus more raw onions, chopped small red peppers, and tomatoes.
3. Fill up can with water (slightly dirty water is best… ha) and add to pot.
4. After water boils, then add seasonings and crushed red pepper. Allow to stew further
5. The stew should begin to resemble a basic tomato sauce.
6. Chop up the smoked tilapia and add (include bones, head, scales, etc.). You may no end up eating all parts of tilapia but it adds a very distinct flavor and is the main source of protein here. Meat and poultry are a luxury.
7. Let stew further until smells and appears satisfactory.

This stew can be served with Banku or Akple, Fufu, Rice, Yams and/or Plantains. Often, if finances permit, a boiled egg or scrambled egg is served alongside rice and stew.
I have eaten this meal almost everyday since I arrived. More photos coming shortly.

--- Breakfast ---

I eat breakfast every morning around 7:30 AM. It is served to me by Abigail, a girl who is enrolled in the school and helps out with the daily cooking at the school. Breakfast consists of the following:

1. NesCafe powder in a small can
2. Canned condensed cream (slightly brown colored and oh so tasty…)
3. Sugar Cubes
4. Boiling hot water in a thermos
5. Fresh Bread - bread is delivered every morning to the house by one of the Kukobo’s many vendors. I am not sure where she bakes the bread, but she carries it in a big basket upon her head. The bread here is wonderful. The bread is soft, spongy and mildly sweet - with the look of fluffy white rolls and the taste and texture of angel food cake, I love it!
6. I have also bought groundnut paste (a.k.a. peanut butter) to spread on the bread.

Conclusions:

Although the variety of food in Ghana seems limited, I do enjoy it. With the exception of Banku and Akple, most of the flavors are great. I have learned to appreciate the smoked tilapia and eat around the small bones and some of the skin - although the skin of the fish does not bother me.

I have been learning to like the food more and more - its really growing on me.

Movie Night with Kukobo Jr.

2009-06-09T06:40:00.000-07:00

June 8, 2009 : Angels & Demons at the Accra Shopping Mall

His jaw dropped slightly as I demonstrated the automatic flush on the urinal, the automated sink, and the hand dryer in the bathroom. Cornelius, the son of the headmaster of our school and home stay family, had never been in a very modern bathroom before.

“There are so many colors and lights,” he remarked as we strolled the mall. “They have everything for sale here he continued.” Once we got into the theatre, he was equally enthralled by the beam of light from the cinema projector as he was by the movie itself. Realize though, that Cornelius is by no means ignorant or extremely poor. He comes from a middle-class family in Accra. He is 12-years-old and has attended school everyday of his life. He owns a DVD player, watches TV, and knows how to use a cell phone. However, one luxury that Cornelius had never enjoyed: a visit to Accra’s one and only modern shopping mall and new cinema. It was also my first visit.

We saw the new Angels & Demons starring Tom Hanks. Cornelius had seen trailers for the movie, and was excited at the proposition of joining us for a night out. His mother and father, after assuaging their fears of returning late on a school night (the movie ended at 10:45 pm), permitted him to join us.

The Accra Shopping Mall is very nice, even by Western/American standards. Although a tad small, the layout, finishes, and presentation of stores is 100% on par with something you would find in the United States. The Silverbird Cinema is also very nice. The mall is located out by the airport, which also happens to be the home of Accra’s wealthiest expats so it makes sense to position it there. For a Monday night, the mall was fairly crowded with a mixture of well-dressed Ghanaian locals and expats.

Taking Cornelius to the movie was a very eye-opening experience for me. I learned about his exposure to the world. He, like many Ghanaians, had never heard of Michael Jordan or Kobe Bryant. He had never heard of McDonalds and very rarely eats fast food. I am sure most of the plot from Angels & Demons was confusing - even most American 12-year-olds probably have trouble grasping the Papal Legacy.

I was even walking with a grown woman today down the street. She was directing me to a restaurant when I asked her, out of curiousity, if she had ever heard of McDonald's. She had not the faintest idea what I was talking about. Despite how "flat" the world seems, there are still islands, barriers, and isolated spots.

Over the course of the movie night, Cornelius became more and more comfortable and definitely enjoyed himself. To make sure the movie watching occasion was just right, we bought popcorn, candy and sodas. We introduced him to the Twix bar - which as expected, he thought was delightful.

I am glad to have exposed Cornelius to a taste of my life in the US- especially on more modest terms. I let him know --- if he ever gets a chance to visit, he obviously has a home.

No McDonalds in Ghana

2009-06-07T07:05:00.000-07:00

After two weeks in Ghana, it hit me. There is no McDonalds here. Not only does Ghana lack (or benefit) the Big Mac, Ghana also lacks Kentucky Fried Chicken (vastly popular in Asia and the Middle East), Starbucks, Pizza Hut, Subway. Food services aside, with the exception of a Shell and Total gas station -Accra has absolutely no recognizable American brand companies much less many internationally recognized brands (besides a couple large banks).

So you'd think this is caused by a lack of income or inability to pay a few bucks for a burger. Yes, maybe. But I have had the opportunity (and joy) of sampling several local fast food joints (note: Fast Service in Ghana does not exist, orders take 15 to 20 minutes to arrive).

At Papaye, which has copied the McDonald's red and yellow, a huge roasted chicken outlet in Osu neighboorhood, a plate of chicken with rice costs between $4 and $8 (without a drink). The prices at other indoor fast food spots are comparable. Papaye is much more frequented by Ghanaians than expats.

Furthermore, I have visited McDonalds in many countries because I always enjoy the local variations of McD's meals: tandoori chicken sandwiches in India, McArabia in Morocco, Date Pies in Dubai, rice in Asia. I am sure they could find a way to make McDonald's appeal to the Ghanaian palate. They should probably just place a piece of fishy tilapia (scales, bones, and all) on top of the burger patties... Ghanaians love tilapia (and not the kind we eat at home, mom!).

So if the income is there, and people enjoy westernized food especially when its modified to appeal to local tastes, then why is there not a McDonald's?

My Opinion:

1. Lack of McDonald's quality food providers. Where can McDonald's get reliable beef, chicken, etc. that meets the company's quality standards?

2. Some sort of government protection or difficulty with approval

3. The economics just don't make sense

Your Thoughts Are Welcomed! Post a comment!

---- On a side note, below is a unofficial list of countries around the world without a McDonalds:

Afghanistan, Albania, Algeria, Angola, Antigua and Barbuda, Armenia, Bangladesh, Barbados, Belize, Benin, Bhutan, Bolivia, Bosnia and Herzegovina, Botswana, Burkina Faso, Burma, Burundi, Cambodia, Cameroon, Cape Verde, Central African Republic, Chad, Comoros, Republic of the Congo, Democratic Republic of the Congo, Côte d'Ivoire, Djibouti, Dominica, East Timor, Equatorial Guinea, Eritrea, Ethiopia, the Federated States of Micronesia, Gabon, Gambia, the Ghana, Grenada, Guinea, Guinea-Bissau, Guyana, Haiti, the Holy See, Iran, Iraq, Jamaica, Kazakhstan, Kenya, Kiribati, Kyrgyzstan, Laos, Lesotho, Liberia, Libya, Madagascar, Malawi, Maldives, Mali, the Marshall Islands, Mauritania, Mongolia, Montenegro, Mozambique, Namibia, Nauru, Nepal, Niger, Nigeria, North Korea, Palau, Papua New Guinea, Rwanda, Saint Kitts and Nevis, Saint Lucia, Saint Vincent and the Grenadines, Sao Tome and Principe, Senegal, Seychelles, Sierra Leone, Solomon Islands, Somalia, Sudan, Swaziland, Syria, Tajikistan, Tanzania, Togo, Tonga, Trinidad and Tobago, Tunisia, Turkmenistan, Tuvalu, Uganda, Uzbekistan, Vanuatu, Vietnam, Yemen, Zambia, and Zimbabwe.

Teaching How I Know Best

2009-06-06T15:57:00.000-07:00

Today (Thursday, June 4, 2009), frustrated with the basic text books and the limitations of learning by simply memorizing and regurgitating facts, I decided to put my three JHS students to the test. We had just finished our second lesson about digestion and the science behind the consumption, absorption, and excretion of food and nutrients. The material was pretty complicated - enzymes, hormones, juices, and organs.

Photo Above: Prince and Theresah present about chocolate digestion. Both are 15-years-old.

Did my students understand the processes of digestion or simply memorize the terms? I was not sure. So, I produced a chocolate bar from my pocket, unwrapped the violet colored paper and foil, then ate it in front of my students. They smiled, but looked confused. I handed Betty the empty wrapper, which displayed the nutritional information about the bar.

I posed the question: “What just happened within my digestive system when I ate that piece of chocolate?”

They looked at me puzzled, and often they have trouble understanding my English. I repeated myself and continued, “You three have thirty minutes to study this chocolate bar and use your notes from class to create a presentation. The presentation must outline the entire digestive process as it relates to my consumption of this chocolate bar.”

If they did an excellent job I told them, I would buy them each a small bar of chocolate the next day. Although typically apathetic, Betty’s eyes lit up with excitement at the thought of chocolate. I did not plan to judge them lightly.

Thirty minutes later, I returned to the cinderblock skeleton posing as a classroom. Prince, the brightest of the group, jumped to his feet. The group had written the presentation word for word on a pad of paper.

Nervously, they recited the lines. The two girls held hands. Prince constantly corrected them over their shoulder. All three were fearful to make eye contact - often nervously laughing when I asked them to look up. Their presentation skills definitely need some work. I had asked them to divide up the presentation into even parts - clearly they had never been taught public speaking.

Despite a decent handle on the material; overall, I was fairly discouraged by their performance. The students injected little creativity or ownership in what they (and I) seemed to think was a very cool assignment.

I explained to them, “The most successful people in the word are communicators. You can know every single page of this science text book, but if you cannot communicate this knowledge effectively then it is almost worthless.” They nodded in agreement. I hope they understand.
This simple assignment has inspired me as a teacher to use the next three weeks to not only teach them science facts, but more importantly skills, confidence, and creativity. I will make them give presentations, think outside the box, and stretch their brains beyond memorization. They are all clearly smart and motivated. It is just a matter of showing them a different way.

For Monday, I have assigned each student a different topic to present on. In Friday's class, we spent the entire period discussing public speaking, techniques, and best practices. I presented about my life for them - hoping my abilities as a speaker could serve as an example for them to follow.

Any suggestions?

A Day in The Life of Mickey Ashmore, The Volunteer Teacher

2009-06-05T13:12:00.000-07:00

Location: Greater Accra, Ghana
Accommodation: Homestay in Kwasheiman region (northwest of Greater Accra)
Job: Volunteer Teacher for Math & Science to Junior High Students
School: KUK Preparatory Private School (Primary through Junior High)

School Prayers (photo 1): Students lineup for morning prayers at 8 am before first period commences. Three full-time teachers manage the 25 or so students.

KUK Prep is run by the headmaster, Mr. Kukobo. A large, dominating figure, currently suffering from an infected, swollen foot which keeps him fairly immobile, he has been operating the school like the Godfather oversees his “family” for more than 20 years. He clearly cares about his pupils, but students address him as “Master” with a respect that he very much instills (and scares) into them - resembling the authoritarian principal rather than the benevolent figure I knew as a child.

The school is also where he resides with his wife, Momma Kukobo, and 14-year-old son, Cornelius. The school and its compound looks onto a large road that seems to always be busy. This road serves as a main highway (despite being only one lane in each direction) that circles Accra. Not unlike the rest of Accra (and Ghana), the roadside is a de facto marketplace. Anything can be purchased along the road. For example, vendors have rented space from Mr. Kukobo to setup large corrugated metal stalls selling housewares, office furniture, and electronics. Others have created small makeshift wooden stalls selling cooked food, soft drinks, or non-perishable food items such as canned beans, nuts, and canned meats. Directly across from our school, a collection of mechanics and autoshops sell parts from broken down buses, repair taxis, and mend tires.

If you travel about 15 minutes North along the road, passing through a hectic junction point, the area becomes more industrial. Heavy machinery, construction elements (gates, doors, windows) and just about anything else you need to build an office or structure can be purchased.

Despite being so close to a major road, the KUK compound is quite an oasis (relatively speaking). A thick cinderblock wall surrounds the grounds, with the main entry and exit (about 40 meters from the road) about as wide as two Honda Civics. The compound is very much unfinished. The home main complex (house and two classrooms) is constructed of concrete and cinderblock with corrugated metal roofs. The additional classrooms are only concrete frames - lacking proper walls and covered with scrap metal roofs. The chalkboards in each room are black colored plywood - warped and blemished - yet functional. Our father has complained that a lack of funding has kept him from finishing the school - hence the skeleton of a school where most classes take place. On the bright side; however, a lack of walls ensures a steady breeze in the classrooms. However, with the addition of more well-funded and; therefore, more attractive schools in the area, his enrollment is down from a peak of 300 students to only 25 to 45 depending on the day. At the current moment, many students cannot afford the tuition fees so the headmaster has been forced to send them home. Despite these hardships; however, he claims to be running one of the best schools in Ghana. From my perspective, this fact is very hard to tell.

School Cafeteria (Photo 2): Female students prepare and serve others at 10:15 am break. Desks and long tables are quickly assembled by the students every morning to create a "cafeteria."

I do not want to sound negative; however. Despite lackluster accommodations, the students really do shine. Every morning, Prince, a 15 year-old junior high student arrives an hour and a half before school at 6:30 AM to prepare. This morning, he was drawing a diagram of cellular structures - labeling the parts and describing each function. We had not learned that the day before and I could not find the material in his ragged paperback science book. “Where did you get this information” I asked, impressed by his initiative. He went on to explain that he met with other students from different schools around the neighborhood every evening at 7 pm. They exchanged notes, books, and materials - teaching each other new concepts and sharing knowledge. Sounds like WikiGhana if you ask me. Prince wants to be a doctor someday. He has a clear knack for school - especially math and science. Given the chance, I am sure he will go far.

In my short time here, I have come to a few conclusions. First, a lack of organization, accountability, and resources in the school renders much of the work done here ineffective. Students that do not want to learn and are not motivated will probably not grasp much. Unlike my experiences in a private school as a child, there are few safety nets to ensure kids are learning. When I teach, the students generally listen. As a white volunteer from the US, they seem very interested in learning from me. After each class period, the students make sure I know when there next math or science class takes place. They really do not want me to miss it.

So far, in my science class - I have been learning along with my students. Do you remember the names of the enzymes in the pancreas that aid in the digestion of proteins? What about the name of the enzyme in the stomach that breaks down milk based proteins (casein)? Well neither do I. So I have learned as my students have learned. Not only have I learned the material, but I have learned how to teach. I have decided that interactive teaching is best. I frequently call on students to teach each other. I ask them to demonstrate concepts, draw diagrams, and connect the academic and classroom worlds. To understand the complete digestion process, we discussed what we ate for dinner: Fufu, Okro (okra) Stew, and a small piece of chicken. What are the differences and how is that digested? Of course, to keep them even further engaged, I always try to bring in examples from my American life. What do Americans eat? PB&J. The concept of a sandwich was funny to them. What about rice, they asked.

So finally, how is a student’s progress measured? The government administers a test every April. Students must pass this test to move on to the next level. Mr. Kukobo claims a 100% pass rate so far. While I am not sure that is true, I have no doubt that motivated students do well. The hard part, like anywhere, is motivating students who lack basic learning resources such as pens, pencils, paper, and text books to take initiative and do the same. To be successful here, a student must truly have a thirst for knowledge and an understanding that education is empowerment. At the end of the day, the best I can do is inspire the students and serve as a role model. A month of teaching science is helpful, but not nearly as beneficial as the life skills and qualities I can instill in them.

Quick Comment, Select Photos

2009-06-02T10:53:00.000-07:00

A group of fishermen mending the net after a day of hardwork. The photo was taken looking out from a bar with a screened window. Dixcove, Western Region.

The bay of Dixcove serves as a hub of fishing along the western coast of Ghana.

Boat building in Busua.

Hello All,

I arrived to my homestay in Accra on Monday, June 1. I am staying with the headmaster of the school and his family. Accomodations are basic and somewhat comfortable (no A/C and mosquitos make sleeping difficult).

I have just posted a lot of words about my week of traveling prior to arriving in Accra. I did not have internet access so I had to post a lot at once. I apologize. Below, I have also posted select photos. I apologize for the quality. Due to poor internet connection, I had to compress the photos thus sacrificing quality for practicality - spending an hour uploading one photo does not seem worthwhile.

If you would like a full (original) copy of any photo, please let me know and I can provide. The full-sized images are much better.

Enjoy. I will be posting about my homestay and teaching experience shortly.

Best,

Mickey